December 2015 Newsletter from Elizabeth Minchilli
december 2015 newsletter
No, this is not a current photograph of Rome. I wish it was. It’s my favorite photograph I ever took. This was taken during the great snow storm of February 2012. It doesn’t snow very often in Rome. And in fact, for the last twenty years I’ve been here this is the only time everything was coated in white. Since this is my December newsletter, and December means Christmas and in my mind I’m always dreaming of a white Christmas it seemed appropriate.
Even though it probably won’t snow (a girl can dream) the city is gearing up for Christmas. Each year the lights seem to come earlier and earlier. Which is fine with me. Because if we’re not going to have snow, the least we can have are lots of sparkly lights. I have even come to anticipate how tacky/ugly the tree in the center of Piazza Venezia will be. (one year they even had to take it down there was so much protest) I hope they cover Via del Corso with a roof of lights again. One year they draped it with the Tricolore, and the next year with the best rainbow ever. They announced it as being part of Gay Pride, then had to backtrack after the Catholic powers that be protested. Then they just said it was a rainbow. Whatever. It was fantastic!!!
I also love spotting groups of wandering Santas that go around playing their instruments (or, checking their cellphone or having a smoke) (It’s Italy, what else do you expect). (Although I never got an explanation for these bike riding Santas)
what's new
Sophie and I had a wonderful Week in Rome during November with marvelous clients. We loved them, and evidently they loved us. We ate our way through the city, and also spent a glorious day in Umbria. During that week, though, the terrible events happened in Paris. It was hard not to be effected, obviously. And my first thought was that maybe I should change some of our plans? In other words, hunker down.
Then, I thought: screw that. That is exactly what I am NOT going to do. If we change our plans, avoid living life, then the terrorists win. As President Merkel so aptly put it: ‘This attack on freedom is not only aimed against Paris. It’s aimed against us all. We know that our free life is stronger than terror.’
I wrote a blog post encouraging you to continue to travel, not just to Paris, but to anywhere your life leads you. And of course, I hope you do keep moving forward, living your life.
Want to know the best way to fight the random terrorist attacks? Ignore them. If the bad guys have their way then you are staying home, afraid to go out. That not only hurts you, it hurts all the businesses, like restaurants, museums, theaters and cinemas that you enjoy and depend upon as part of our way of life. So please, don’t cancel that trip to Paris or London or Rome. Come eat with us, cook with us, just have fun with us. Living your life fully and freely is the best, the only, response.
travels
No big trips this past month, but a few little ones. I spent the night in Florence and visited old favorites Sostanza and Fagioli. I know I should have been checking out some of the newer restaurant openings around town, but sometimes I just want what I want. I did manage to work in one thing that was new: A visit to the newly reopened Opera del Duomo. This museum, located to the back of the Duomo, has always been one of my favorites. Mostly since it was usually pretty empty. Housing the sculptural decorations from the Duomo, Babtistry and Bell Tower, the collection includes masterpieces by Donatello, Michelangelo and Bruneleschi. The newly installed collection includes a breathtaking life size reconstruction of the facade of the church which is magnificent. But my favorite, as always, is the choir stall by Luca della Robbia. If there is a more joyous work of art in all of Florence please let me know. Who doesn't love music-making putti?
I also spent an incredible art, food and wine filled day at Castello di Ama in Chianti. Looking for a day trip from Florence? This is a good one.
We also went up to Umbria a few times this past month. I spent a day with my friends Jane and Scott at Paolo Bea’s amazing winery. We tasted, we bought and then we headed into Montefalco for a glorious lunch and a good dose of art. Back at home I used up the last jar of my poached pears to make this dessert. And the first head of broccoli went into this dish of pasta. Another weekend with Gillian and Mark we visited this olive mill to stock up on freshly pressed oil.
videos
I am very very behind on the video-making front. Maybe because I’m spending so much time on the video-watching front. I”m not talking about movies and/or tv series. I’m talking about the kind of stuff you watch on Youtube that makes you smile.
Ok, I admit it. I am totally obsessed with Adele. Like absolutely everyone else in the world. So, in this oder watch: the new Adele video, Hello. Now,go watch this SNL skit. Again and again and again. It’s hysterical. And if that's not enough Adele for ya, here she is on Jimmy Fallon.
This Sora Lella video makes me so happy.
If this video doesn’t make you want to dance, there is something wrong with you.
Oh, wait! I just realized I have been making videos. On Snapchat. Follow me along. I'm eminchilli. If you don't know what snapchat is,here's a great explanation. I hope you join up. Trust me. It's fun.
holiday gift suggestions
If you’re like me, you never know what to get people for the holidays. I’m not even very good at suggesting things that I want. But here is a short list of things that not only I am getting for people, but that I wouldn’t mind receiving myself. That’s always a good litmus test for gift giving, no?
So here are a few of my choices this year (many by friends), which might be helpful to you.
Rêves de Sabine
When I was younger my sisters and I spent several idyllic summers on the island of Ibiza. One of our favorite things to do was hang out with our friend Sabine. She is French (which made her defacto cool) and was always devising different beauty treatments that used local herbs. We were lucky enough to be her American guinea pigs. She’s now turned this into an actual business, and has launched her own storefront at Etsy.
Chianti Cashmere
If you’re like me you like to know where your food comes from. You know what else is nice? Knowing where your clothes come from. If you’re a fan of cashmere, but don’t really want to support the questionable stuff that comes from China, then my friend Nora’s site is for you. Home grown cashmere from Chianti.
Castello di Ama Candles
I'm a sucker for a great candle, and it was a surprise to discover these during my food and wine fueled day at Castello di Ama. I loved them all, as well as the perfume, Iris Mater
I'm also currently obsessed with the Verbena and Sage home scent by Eau d'Italie.
Food gifts are always a good idea. Rather than go the traditional Harry & David route (although, those pears are awful good) I usually head to the following:
Zingermans : tons of great gift baskets, but I'm partial to their Bacon Club.
Gustiamo I love their themed baskets, and this is a trusted source for Italian Olive Oil.
Market Hall Foods has a dedicated Panettone Pop up shop on their site. Just try to stay away from that.
Is someone you know planning a trip to Rome? You can buy them a Gift Certificate for one of my Food Tours or Day Trips. Bet you hadn't even thought of that. Send me an email for more information.
Want to surprise your friend/spouse/partner with a Week in Rome? Now that would make you a very creative (and generous) Santa. Our week starts on March 13, 2016. We love to have you join us! Just send me an email for details.
While I’m all about digital, sometimes you just want to hold a book in your hands. Here are a few that would make great gifts this year:
Eating Rome, by….ME! What? There’s someone out there who doesn’t have my book yet. Quick, buy it for them. Whether they are coming to Rome or not.
My Paris Kitchen, by David Lebovitz.
My Kitchen in Rome, by Rachel Roddy (out Feb 2, you can pre-order it)
Pasta by Hand, by Jenn Louis
Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break, by Johanna Kindvall and Anna Brones
Ciao Biscotti, by Domenica Marchetti
The Four Seasons of Pasta, by Nancy Harmon Jenkins and Sara Jenkins
Near & Far: Recipes Inspired by Home and Travel by Heidi Swanson
Gluten-Free Girl American Classics Reinvented, by Shauna Ahern and Daniel Ahern
Even though this list is about acquiring STUFF, Lately I've been focussed on paring down. Getting rid of STUFF. I'm currently reading these two books at the same time. Barry Yourgrau's book Mess will put the fear of god into you about becoming a hoarder. And if you want some practical advise about how to approach that scary closet, then read Marie Kondo's The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up. I found them both entertaining and scary in equal measure. (You could also passive-aggressively gift them to someone you live with. That's what I plan on doing)
And.....did you know I also wrote six books that have absolutely nothing to do with food? Here are my two most recent:
Italian Rustic: How to Bring Italian Charm into your Life
Restoring a Home in Italy: 22 Homeowners Realize their Dreams
7 (more or less) fishes
We’ll be in Bari for Christmas this year. Which means that on the 24th we’ll be eating fish. Eating fish on Christmas Eve is definitely an Italian (i.e. Catholic) tradition, but the ‘7 Fishes’ thing seems to have originated in the USA. I’ve never met an Italian who has heard of it. Down in Bari we’ll be having at the very least 7 kinds of fishes. Many of them raw. But if you’d like to prepare your own fishy feast, here are some ideas:
Fish and Potatoes
Fish cooked in Parchment
Minestra di Broccoli e Arzilla
Spaghetti con Colatura
Anchovy Pasta and Anchovy Crostini
Pasta with Octopus
Pasta with Clams, Lemons and Zucchini
Octopus and Celery Salad
Octopus and Potato Salad
Stewed Octopus
Sardines and Endive
Pasta with Sardines, Pistachios and Orange
Cozze Gratinate
Have a wonderfully festive month! And please, drink one of these or these or these for me.
x,Elizabeth