June 2016 Newsletter from Elizabeth Minchilli
june 2016 newsletter
I’m big on resolutions. But not the kind that make you do without something (you know, the diet kind). I’m more about making resolutions to add things to my life. More getting together with friends, more grilling,more new types of cocktails, more visits to palaces in Rome. That kind of thing. I’ve definitely been doing well in the ‘visiting private palaces’ department recently. Over the last few weeks, through various means, I’m managed to squeak my way into various embassies, private homes, palaces and courtyards not only in Rome but in Florence.
One of the things that draws me into these places is not just the chance to peek behind closed doors (although that is admittedly thrilling) but what I usually find there. When looking at a 16th century palace one of the most striking things as I spin around , taking it all in, is that everything is made by hand. From the floor I walk across to the soaring frescoed ceiling above. And made with skill, artisanry and extreme attention to detail. So much so, that these works have survived for centuries.
One of my goals this year is to continue in my pursuit of the handmade. Yes, I’ll be poking my nose into as many private palazzi and villas as possible. But I also plan on taking a slightly different direction as well. In the future I’d like to spend more time watching people actually make food. And by make food, I don’t mean cook. I mean really make food, like cheese, cured meats, pasta…you name it. I’ve always taken advantage of these experiences when they presented themselves, but from now on I’m going to actively seek these food artisans out. Because you want to know something? These living monuments to Italy’s cultural heritage are a lot more fragile than the frescoed palaces and villas. And I have this feeling that if I don’t seek them out now, they may not be around the next time I think about it.
So expect to see much more hands on action in the near future. Sophie and I visited a mozzarella maker last week, and I’m planning trips now all over Italy to seek out everything from capers in Salina to grappa in Friuli. Is there anything in particular you’d like to see? Let me know, and I’ll add it to the list!
what's new
Remember when I spent all that time in Torino over the winter? And I promised that a new Torino app was in the works? Well, it’s here. I’ve just hit the publish button and EAT TORINO is now for sale. If you already have EAT ITALY on your phone, then the EAT TORINO will have shown up there. You can purchase it, and it will automatically download. As usual it contains all my favorite restaurants, bars, gelato places and food stores. I’ll be adding some more entries in the next few weeks, including a few of my favorite hotels. But don’t worry, once you buy it, the content will be updated automatically.
I added Torino to my apps primarily because I just love Torino to death. It’s as if Italy married France and had a beautiful child. It’s all the good food and style of Italy, but with a northern sense of order and elegance. And although I’ve never lived in Torino, I’ve been spending time regularly there for the last 20 years. Torino is the home to Slowfood’s Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre which take place every other year, and I make it a point to visit. So over the years I’ve come to know the city quite well, and of course have my favorite restaurants. But this past year I made it a point to visit some of the newer restaurants that have opened, which was really exciting. And of course I’m headed back later this year for the Salone. I’ve already booked my airbnb, and if you’re thinking about going, (and I highly encourage you to do so, it’s fantastic) then you should start thinking about where to stay too. And of course, if you do end up there during Salone, restaurant reservations are essential. Everything books up! And now, with EAT TORINO, you have your list of where to go. You're welcom.
I’ve actually been spending time updating all of my apps, and have been adding to Rome and Florence too. While working on Rome I realized that I hadn’t updated my list of “Where to Eat in Monti” on my blog in years! This post is pretty much all you need to get around my own neighborhood of Monti, in Rome, without dying of hunger. There really has been a lot of changes to Monti in the last few years, some of which are very delicious. If you’d like to join me on a tour of Monti, exploring some of the new spots, just let me know. Sophie is also working on her own version of a Monti tour, and our cooking classes take place here too, in our own Monti Kitchen.
And speaking of Monti, I’ve got two more spaces available on our Week in Rome tour in November. Want to come play? Your home-away-from-home will be in a cute apartment in Monti.
videos
Someone recently asked me if I could move to another neighborhood in Rome which would it be? Easy. Testaccio. I love this neighborhood for so many reasons, not the least of which is that it has managed to remain relatively unchanged in a way that is very rare in Rome. One of my friends, Rachel, not only has the extreme good luck to live there, she also just wrote a book about it. A few weeks ago she invited me over for lunch (thank you Rachel!) and I made this video about it.
Lately I find myself going back to old recipes that I used to make, but that I’ve somehow forgotten about. Unsurprisingly many of them come from the much loved and slightly battered pages of my ancient copies of Marcella’s first cookbooks. One of my all time favorites is her recipe for pork chops with sage and tomatoes. It’s easy peasy. Just watch.
This is how Eva Longoria orders pizza. (Who is this aimed at?? Please tell me!)
And speaking of pizza, this mobile brick oven is brilliant!
A more serious and totally inspirational side, Loretta Lynch’s response to what is going on in North Carolina should be watched over and over.
travels
We made it up to Florence for a long weekend last month. We didn’t have fixed plans but just kind of played it by ear. We were lucky since a) the weather was INCREDIBLE and b) there were two very different, but fun events happening while we were there. After a long lunch at Antica Mescita di San Niccolo, we hiked up through the Rose Garden to Piazzale Michelangelo just in time to see the Mille Miglia car rally drive through town. The vintage car spotting made Domenico extremely happy. The next day was more my speed: Open Gardens and Courtyards, organized by the ADSI. We spent the entire day, with my friend Peggy, wandering in and out of private gardens and palaces that are normally closed to the public. It was completely over the top magical.
I was lucky enough to spend a huge chunk of time up in Umbria this past month (we still have some open weeks to rent in June, if you are intersted just email me). It’s my favorite time of year since the roses are in bloom and there are also cherries and mulberries to pick.
I’ve also been planning short trips for this summer. I hope to make it up to see the Christo installation at Lago d’Iseo. It seems like every hotel on the lake is already booked up solid, so we’ll stay in nearby Bergamo which I’m super excited about. And then we’ll head over to Lake Como where Domenico is busy working on a project to restore a villa.
what I'm reading
I’ve started downloading my books for summer. What are you reading? I'm really desperate since I can't seem to get into anything now that I've finished the Elena Ferrante books.
Happy to see my favorite Roman Jewelers featured in the New York Times.
Sad to read about one of my favorite streets in Florence collapsing.
Evidently the rules to Italian cooking are very strict indeed. At least according to Anna del Conte.
If you steal food in Italy, and you are hungry, it is not a crime.
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and finally....
According to Correire della Sera it’s us Anglo-Saxon’s who are explaining Roman cuisine to the world.
I got a change to chat with WBEZ about ancient grains from Sicily and why they matter.
The Sunday Times Travel included both Sophie and Me in their What to do in Rome guide!
I know it seems counterintuitive to start thinking of soups as summer begins. But it is bean season (and I’m talking fresh shell beans, not dried). But even when fresh beans aren’t available, I find myself making bean soup all summer long. And here’s why: it’s easy. If you’re like me and you do more entertaining in the summer, then you’re probably looking for something easy to prepare ahead and then serve. It is the perfect first course to grilled meats or vegetables. Also? it’s very impressive and makes everyone very happy. And don’t worry, you don’t have to serve it boiling hot, room temp or slightly warm is just fine.
You want to know what else makes people extremely happy? Mortadella. I swear to god. I think it's everyone's secret that it's just about their favorite cured meat in the world. I found this out when I posted this video on Instagram and it got over 18,000 views and almost 200 comments!!!
So while I can't give you a recipe for Mortadella (just buy it and serve it!) I can leave you with a few of my favorite bean soup recipes. And a menu: Mortadella + Bean Soup. (make the people happy).
Bean and Prosciutto Soup
Bean Soup with Drippings
Dried Fave and Kale Soup
Fresh Cranberry Bean Soup
Chickpea and Zucchini Soup
x,Elizabeth