February News from Elizabeth Minchilli in Rome

Elizabeth Minchilli
EATING MY WAY THOUGH ITALY

February 2019 Newsletter

There’s been so much in the news recently about tourism in Italy. There is no denying that certain parts of Italy - like the historic centers of Rome, Florence and Venice - are over crowded to the point of making them seem more like Disneyland than cities where real people live and work. Figuring out a solution is a complicated task, since you can’t tell people not to come. Some sort of tax seems like a good approach, but when the city of Venice proposed an ‘entry fee’ (which is really just a tourist tax called by another name) the uproar was huge. Even charging admission to churches (which are also tourists attractions) is problematic

But in the last few months there has been a few very creative ideas in the press. One small town in Sicily is selling abandoned houses for 1 Euro to encourage foreigners to move there and restore them. Another village in the north of Italy will pay you 10,000 Euros to move there (although part of the deal seems to be that you have to start making babies). My favorite project is one that is being sponsored by the company that takes most of the blame for changing the fabric of European cities: Airbnb. Even Airbnb realizes that there is a limit to how many homes can be converted into vacation rentals before cities lose their charm. And so they have started a scholarship in partnership with a tiny village in Basilicata. The four lucky winners will get to spend 3 months in the small isolated town of Grottole, living with a family, learning Italian and working on some sort of creative project.

Last month I was at the New York Times Travel Show, where I gave three talks on the subject of sustainable tourism. Specifically sustainable Culinary Tourism. My feeling is that if you follow your appetite, and leave the more well known sites like the Colosseum or the Ponte Vecchio behind in search of something like, say, a unique type of Sardinian pasta or a fisherman looking for anchovies, then you are not only more likely to have a more authentic experience. You’re also less likely to run into your neighbor from back in Westchester. And by doing so you’ll also be helping to support isolated communities that are in need of the tourism euros you're bringing to them.

What's New

Speaking of going down the road less traveled, Puglia made it onto the NYTimes list of 52 places to visit this year. And Matera, located in Basilicata, is the European Culture Capital this year. All the more reason to head south, right? If you don’t want to go on your own, you can come with us. We have 2 spots that just opened up for our tour to Puglia April 7-13. (send me an email to find out more) There are also still 3 spots left on our tour with Elizabeth Gilbert to Puglia and Matera in July . Send me an email for the details.

There are still 2 more spots left on our Nose-to-Tail Week with Melissa Clark (March 3-9). I know some of you were scared off by the whole nose-to-tail thing, but believe me, there will be lots of artichokes (and other vegetables) too. The week includes day trips to Umbria and Florence, as well as a cooking class with Melissa. We will also be drinking a lot. (duh!) Send me an email for details.

And if you'd like to join us in Umbria, we have 2 spots left our Week in Umbria tour, September 15-21. Let me know if you’d like more information.

Sophie is busy updating her tour offerings these days. She is now leading day tours this summer in Bari and has also added a Monti tour.

What I'm Watching

We are finally catching up on films and while I know everyone is talking about A Star is Born, The Wife and Glenn Closes’ performance, was incredible. It reminded me more of a Pinter play, than a movie, and its spartan, tight exploration of love, betrayal and creativity was extremely moving.

I downloaded the first season of The Office to watch again on the plane. I was laughing so hard people were giving me looks.

This is my go to lunch this time of year when I try to work oranges into as many meals as possible.

By far the most amazing thing I watched recently was the completely whacko weather in New York. While walking along a sunny Madison Avenue my phone alarm alerted went off. Did you even know there was such a thing? It sounded like an ambulance coming out of my purse. The text: an impending snow squall. I didn't believe it, since it was cold, but sunny. But by the time I got up to my dad’s place, about 10 minutes later, we watched the storm move across Central Park and by the time I went downstairs (in just a half hour) to get the subway this snow storm awaited me. A total white out!! That next below? Of the gorgeous sunset at Astor place? That was only 20 minutes later when I got off the subway. Not a flurry in site. WTF?!

What I'm Reading

I’m totally engrossed in Susan Orlean’s latest: The Library Book. For anyone (like me) who grew up in libraries, this is one you have to read.

Yes, it’s another study that says we are not only living our best life, but that it will be a long one.

You’ll be very happy to know that the memorial cobblestones that were stolen two months ago in Rome have been replaced.

Add singing on the bus to the long list of laws in Rome you can probably ignore.

This is the article you need to read before your next trip to Rome (hint: it is a handy list of all the best new restaurants)

While in New York I spent as much time in museums as I did in restaurants. The best show I saw was the Hilma af Klint show at the Guggenheim. If you can't make it to see this extraordinary show (on until April 25) I encourage you to buy the catalogue, read about this amazing woman’s life, and fall in love with her work as I did.

What I'm Eating

In case you missed it, this is my winter version of the classic Pavlova

People are always asking me for advice on where to eat in New York. Truthfully we never plan ahead. So we usually miss out on the hard to get into places (everywhere these days) but somehow always manage to eat very well. Here is my Facebook post, which links to all of the places where we ate. Special shout out to Sam Youkilis (who you should be following on instagram) who managed to get us into Frenchette where we ate that amazing pistachio stuffed pastry below.

Although I didn’t actually make this recipe, just reading it inspired me to cook escarole 5 times in the last month.

And finally.....

In case you missed hearing us live, on Heritage Radio Network ,here is the link to listen to Sophie and me chat with Linda Cook Pelaccio about sustainable culinary travel.

Thank you Better Homes & Gardens for including The Italian Table in your list of books you can't wait to read in 2019!!!

Speaking of which….I picked up an advance copy of The Italian Table while I was in New York!!! It’s even more gorgeous than I could have hoped. The publish date is March 12 and you can pre-order it. Or you can wait and pick up a signed copy when I am in the USA!! Yes, the book tour planning is underway. Some dates are set already, and others will be coming soon. Check this page for events.

And one more thing....

As many of you know we lost our beloved Pico last month. I was going to begin this newsletter with some sort of essay about loss and love and gut-wrenching heartbreak. But I didn’t want to start on a sad note. And I don’t want to end it on one either. Pico lived a good life. He was 16 and I think at the end we suffered more than he did. I can’t deny it’s horrible. I’m tearing up right now as I write this. Sitting in my office alone is almost unbearable. But we were lucky to have had Pico in our lives as long as we did. I realize that. Which is the glass half full way of looking at it I guess. But I am writing now because I wanted to thank each and every one of you for your kind words on Facebook and Instagram. The love helps. I”m sorry I haven’t responded to all of you, but I just can’t read the messages yet. But thank you.
x,e