December 2019 Newsletter from Elizabeth Minchilli
Elizabeth Minchilli
EATING MY WAY THROUGH ITALY
December 2019 Newsletter
Last week, while I was in Paris someone sent me an article from Italy about an issue dear to my heart. It’s in Italian, so many of you won’t be able to read it. The issue is very important and, unfortunately, one that I find myself writing about more and more often, many times on various occasions.
Specifically this article concerns the pasta making ladies of Bari Vecchia. They operate out of their tiny homes, making pasta and selling it directly on the street. They have always done this. Now the mayor of Bari is trying to enforce not just 'health' laws, but financial ones. It's the financial ones (traceability, sales tax, etc) that may finally do them in. The high cost of adding tax onto these little pasta shapes may eventually make this tradition a thing of the past. While I'm all for food artisans being paid a respectfully high and just fee for doing what they do, if they are forced to embroil themselves in the tangled web of Italian taxes many will not survive. Yes, everyone should pay taxes. But after seeing artisan after artisan close up shop (not just food artisans but ceramicists, carpenters, metal smiths, cobblers, etc) when forced to hand over their meagre profits to a government which doesn't see the value of their work, I think it's time to protest. My own work is based upon the fact that such artisans exist. And I happily pay a lot of tax to help support these underpaid heroes of traditional Italian culture. The problem, it seems to me, is that there is no protection or recognition from the Italian government (local or national) for the incredible cultural patrimony that such trades preserve. They are indeed an endangered species, a cultural patrimony, and should be protected as such. What do you think?
What's New
Domenico and I spent an extra long weekend up in Umbria last month. It rained almost the entire time. And it was perfect. And then Sophie and I went to Sicily where it was also a bit drizzly. But also dreamy. Do you know what made these trips so enjoyable (at least in our minds): the fact that there were almost no other tourists around, and we had the place to ourselves. Long walks in Umbrian towns or driving into the countryside in Sicily. This kind of travel, in the off season, to places that are already underpopulated is exactly the type of experiences we try to create during our Week in Italy tours. I think that these days, this kind of ‘space’ is the type that is the most luxurious thing I can imagine. It is the complete opposite of the type of experience you would get by traveling to Florence or Venice in June or July. Or, for that matter, Rome
In our quest to create more of the type of 'off the beaten road' trips we love to go on ourselves, we’ve decided to eliminate the Week in Rome tour from our schedule. At least for the time being. Our last Week in Rome tour will take place next March. And while we love sharing out city with our guests, our city has just become too overwhelmed with tourists for most of the year. March is still ok, but our thinking is that we’re better off bringing our guests to places that actually need more tourists. Right? If there is one thing Rome does not need more of, it's tourists.
So anyway…more tours to places like Sicily, Puglia and Umbria. Sophie just came back from a scouting trip to Calabria, and I’m heading to Abruzzo next week, because these are the places we’d like to explore. Do you have a wish list of places in Italy you've heard of but never visited? If so, let us know. We are happy to do the 'research' (and you know I mean eating).
If you’d like to join us on our upcoming tours, following your appetite, leading you down less travelled roads, we’d love to have you. There are still a few spots left in 2020 for Umbria in May, and also Puglia in September with Melissa Clark. And we still have plenty of room for all seven weeks in 2021! See this page for information on all of our tours, or send me an email to find out more.
Where I've Been
If this newsletter is a few days late, you can blame it on Paris. Domenico and I took an entire week off to go have a completely un-work related holiday. My friend Suzanne was there, and that seemed a good enough excuse. Since so many people have asked, here are the details from the trip which was fabulous!
Hotel Duc de Saint Simon: A very small hotel in the 7th. I choose it upon recommendation from a travel writer friend who said " It’s one of those places we all love and nobody posts because it’s small." It’s extremely old world, and the rooms are small, but we got a very sweet suite and were very happy. Be aware that the beds are doubles, not kings, so if you are with your spouse expect to get cozy. Also? As we were leaving Queen Sofia of Spain arrived, so, well.
Cafe de Flore: Classic Parisan cafe’. We actually had lunch there and loved it.
Chez Denise: I think this is one of the oldest restaurants in Paris. It’s a classic Bistrot, with lovely wood beamed ceilings. The menu was tres old fashioned, and definitely meat-heavy. We had pate de foie gras, terrine and a steak that was big enough for 8 people! (we were 3). So much fun!! Chez Denise - La Tour Montlhery, 5 Rue des Prouvaires, 75001 Paris +33.142.36.21.82
Mokonuts: This little hole in the wall is run by Moko and her husband Omar and is exquisite. It is, as Melissa Clark says “A sophisticated, personal synthesis of French, Middle Eastern, American and Japanese flavours’. It was one of our favourite meals in Paris.
Chez Vong: We went to this Chinese restaurant with no expectations at all. It was organised for a group we were with and so we though ‘ok.’ But it was fantastic! Over the top decoration and really great food. LOVED the Peking duck.
Cafe Marly: A great place to go before or after the Louvre. I thought having a humongous Irish coffee was the perfect pre-game to seeing the Leonardo show.
Robert: This charming restaurant run by an Australian was perfect. I went there with my friend Lindsey, since it was in her neighborhood.
Philippe Excoffier: We went here for their special Thanksgiving Day Lunch, but it was fantastic. So I”m thinking if the chef can make Thanksgiving so good, then he must be stellar on normal days. He was the official chef at the American Embassy so that explains his familiarity with turkey.
Le Petit Saint Benoit: I always try to stop by here when I’m in Paris. Old fashioned food like escargot, eggs with mayonnaise and frogs legs. In a turn of the century setting that is completely charming,
And two more notes: French museums have great cafes. We had very good lunches at both the Le Frank at the Fondation Louis Vuitton and the Cafe des Freres Prevert at the Musee Maillol. You can't reserve at either, but the wait at both was very short.
What I'm Reading
We loved seeing the show about Charlotte Perriand last week in Paris. Read this article to find out how this female architect you’ve never heard of may very well have designed that chair you are sitting on.
Are you often underwhelmed by truffles? This article explains why.
Loved the new Stephen King The Institute. He's such a great story teller, it's great to get lost in one of his books
Florence is most definitely full of tourists. But if you'd like to avoid the crowds, Georgette Jupe has you covered.
I'm thinking Molise should be the next destination for one of our Week in Italy Tours. Never heard of that region? Maybe it doesn't even exist.
Umbria definitely exists. And Forbe's writer Laurie Kahle came along in October and wrote this charming report about her time with us.
And finally.....
I'm sure that by now you've read about the horrible flooding in Venice. You can read this article which helps explain what happened, and this is how you can help. The main way you can help, however, is by visiting. So many peole cancelled their plans to visit Venice, that many hotels and restaurants are suffering this added burden. So if you can plan a trip to Venice, preferably off season, and visit smaller businesses, this helps a lot. And at the same time? You get to visit Venice. So win win.
I just realised that I wrote this entire email without mentioning any and all holidays happening this month. I think it's because we haven't set up our decorations yet. I'm planning on putting up the tree this week, and I just gave money to my neighbour who is getting our street here in Rome strung with lights. (so stay tuned for photos of THAT!) But since I'd like to leave you on a festive note, here are a few of my favourite winter citrus recipes. Hopefully this will not only help you stay healthy , but will bring some sunshine into your winter holidays!
Orange Cake
Fennel & Grapefruit Salad
Anchovy, Scallion and Orange Pasta
Raddichio & Blood Orange Salad
Fennel & Orange Salad Video
x,Elizabeth
It's December! And I know you're racking your brain for the perfect gift. I found one for you: The Italian Table.
Order your copy here or through this link with more resources. And with this special link the book comes with a basket full of ingredients to help get you started.
Or, just in case you really love someone and want to give them an extra special gift: order all three of my most recent books on Italian Food:
