Hello from Elizabeth in Italy: June 2020 Newsletter
Elizabeth Minchilli
EATING MY WAY THROUGH ITALY
June 2020 Newsletter
It’s hard to know where to begin with this newsletter. I started it last week, when the world seemed only relatively broken. This morning, with the news from the USA even worse than yesterday, it’s almost impossible to sit down to write what is usually a newsletter full of hope and cheer, pretty pictures and recipes.
Not writing anything doesn’t seem to be an option. So I’ll forge ahead…
First an update on things in Italy. We’ve now entered into the next phase of re-opening in Italy. Life here is beginning to move towards some semblance of normal. Last week I was able to go to Rome for a couple of days and it was both wonderful to be back, as well as completely weird. While I loved being able to see friends, I also realized I’m not used to socializing. (I didn’t realize that was a skill I could lose.) And even though it was incredible to see Rome with no tourists at all, it was also incredibly sad. Sophie went to Rome for a few days too, taking advantage of completely empty museums like the Vatican.
I also realized that I’m not quite ready to be back full time in a big city just yet, and so have decided to stay based in Umbria for the summer (which I usually do anyway). But as of June 3, we are allowed to travel freely within Italy, without having to fill out any documents. So Domenico and I will be making trips, including heading to Bari this week, to visit Nonna!! (She’s doing fine). We also may go to Abruzzo, maybe the Dolomites, but are taking things one small step at a time. What I really want to do is support the hotels, restaurants and other businesses that have been so hard hit by the complete decimation of the Italian tourism sector. Many places may not survive. My short term plans is to help promote these places as much as possible. I’ve recently started making videos on Instagram, mostly of me cooking. What I’d like to do is to include others in these videos as well. Small producers and farmers who we depend upon for our tours. Sophie and I have a long list of places we’d like to visit here in Umbria, as well as other regions. We’re always happy to get suggestions if you have any.
Although this newsletter is mostly about food and Italy, what is happening in the States surrounding the killing of George Floyd, and the protests that have followed, is not only global but also tied to everything I try to base my business on. Like many of you I am doing my best to educate myself and share resources for education, protest and donation on my social media platforms. This is not a new problem, but hopefully we can forge new answers, especially if we ask the right questions.
I realize that I am incredibly privileged, and have no personal concept of systematic injustice and inequality that exists not just in the USA but all over the world. I also recognize the fact that I can do more. It’s a time to listen and to learn, and I will try to do this. I will be sharing resources for learning, as well as helping, on my platforms. Again, if you have any suggestions, I am open to hear them. Now more than ever, this is a time to share, learn and listen.
At the same time I will also continue to share my life here in Italy. I know that many of you see this as an ‘escape’ and you would prefer that I stayed out of anything political, disturbing or both. Yet even when I am merely sharing photographs of pasta or pizza, it is always about something more. I have always firmly believed that learning about another culture (through food, art and of course people) is the best way to promote understanding , acceptance and love.
What's New
As I mentioned above, Sophie and I have been using this down time to discover new things. We are always tweaking and adding to our Week in Italy tours and with the changes in tourism that is currently going on, we feel more strongly than ever, that visiting and promoting small scale producers is what we need to focus on. We’ve felt for a long time that the over-tourism in cities is non-sustainable. And look at where we are now. Travel that takes you to out of the way places seems more and more like the way to go.
As I mentioned in my last newsletter we are busy making plans for 2021 and are just starting to schedule our tours for 2022. I’ve added two dates for Puglia in 2022, and will be adding more dates for 2022 in the next month or so.
In the meantime I wanted to thank all of you so much for the huge response to join us in 2021!! I know I am excited about getting back to travel, and it is such a joy to hear that you are too! So many people wrote and signed up for our new Abruzzo tour with Evan Kleiman. For us this tour, based in a small village in the middle of the Abruzzo countryside, is exactly the type of small scale, slow tourism, that is the antidote to the kind of mass tourism that is obviously no longer sustainable. (send me an email if you'd like to learn more.)
I’m also so glad that many of you will be joining us on our new Summer in Puglia tour. While we usually schedule our tours in the off season, we realized that many people (especially teachers and academics) only have the summer off. Also? Puglia in the summer is just plain gorgeous. If you'd like to learn more, send me an email.
See this page for our full schedule for 2021 and the start of our tours for 2022. We’ll be headed to Puglia, Abruzzo, Parma (Pasta Grannies!), Umbria and Sicily. I hope you can join us! And just send me an email if you have any questions
What I'm Reading
Next up on my very long list of books I could have and should have read by now:
Between the World and Me, Ta-Nehisi Coates
The Fire Next Time, James Baldwin
Did you know that one of the best recent books on Roman cooking , Tasting Rome, is co-authored by photographer and writer Kristina Gill? Originally from Nashville, Kristina has been writing about food from Italy for most of her career.
I’m feeling very inspired by my friend Ari’s monthly newsletter. You can read it here and should sign up for it. He always has something interesting to say. (also recipes!)
This op-ed from Stacy Abrams explaining why voting matters more than ever now.
Here in more detail is what the June 3 lessening of travel restrictions in Italy means. And in general Italy Magazine is a good place to check in to find out how the changing travel restrictions may effect you.
Love this list of Italian white wines just in time for the summer.
What I'm Eating
Since we are no longer in strict lock down, the weekly meal plan has - sadly? - come to an end. It was wonderful having a routine to stick to, and it helped us to keep track of our inventory and limit trips to the grocery store. Also? We had loads of time to cook! But now that things are heading back to the new normal, we’ve opted for more spontaneity. While I do miss having the plan, it is more than made up for by the fact that we can now go out to restaurants!!
Yes, restaurants are now open in Italy. With restrictions of course. Since it’s June most places are able to have tables outside and even restaurants that never had an outdoor space are able (with the new laws) to set up tables on the side walk. The waiters wear masks, and the tables are spread far apart.
While we’ve been visiting our favorite places after way too long, we’ve also been discovering new restaurants. One of the funnest was this past Sunday when Domenico and I drove to Trevi to the Lumacheria. This is a small trattoria located on a snail farm! Yes, the entire menu was all about snails. Since I don’t think I’ve ever had snails in Italy (much less Umbria) we decided to try the mixed platter, which included a bit of everything. Grilled, stewed, roasted…it was all delicious.
I was also finally able to have people over for a meal. This is one of the things I missed the most. We had neighbors over for lunch in the garden and Sophie made Amatriciana and I made a cherry pie made from cherries from our tree.
I was really looking forward to this natural wine fair in Parma. Unfortunately it was cancelled (obviously) but have a look at this website for a chance to buy many of the wines that would have been for sale. While I’m not sure they ship to the USA, the list of wines from the fair is a great place to start if you want to search out some natural wines to try at your local wine store.
And finally.....
The Wall Street Journal did a big round up of online cooking classes and included my IGTV videos! I'm planning lots more, so make sure you are following me.
I got a chance to chat with Culture Trip about the future of Roman food.
Like everyone else the memories that have been popping up on Facebook from last year, 2 years ago, seem more like decades ago. I can't believe that this time last year I was just coming home from my book tour for The Italian Table. And 2 years ago this month I was finishing my trip to promote Eating My Way Through Italy. I am so incredibly glad and thankful that I got the chance to travel across the USA meeting all of you. That time of wide open hugs and handshakes (and Spritzes and Negronis!) seems so incredibly precious now. I'm holding on tightly to the memory and hope to be able to see everyone in person soon enough. For now, stay strong and stay safe.
x,Elizabeth
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