November 2020 News from Elizbabeth

Elizabeth Minchilli
EATING MY WAY THROUGH ITALY

November 2020 Newsletter

Here we are again. With a horrible sense of déjà vu Italy has just entered a new version of lockdown. Not as strict (at least in central Italy) as the last time around, but still. After a week in Rome last month, thinking I would gradually move my things back there (I’ve been up in Umbria since mid-February) I’m back in the countryside again, tending to the garden.

I actually would love to be back in Rome, but Rome right now is just too….weird? I’m trying to think of the right word to use. I made a quick trip there this week to get my hair and nails done (priorities!!) and the city was completely empty. After getting out of the hairdresser I walked across Campo dei Fiori and down Via dei Giubbonari. As is my custom after getting my hair done I wanted to stop in some of my favorite clothes and food stores, even though I really didn’t need anything. Unfortunately they had all closed at 6pm, following the new rules. And even though the curfew wasn’t until midnight, the city was already deserted. Beautiful. But definitely weird. And since masks must be worn the minute you walk out of the front door, here in Umbria I can at least be on my own property, mask-free, in the open air. It’s just easier.

So I’m back here, with Sophie and Kitty. Domenico is still commuting back to Rome a few days a week. The difference (so far) with the last lockdown is that we can still drive around and visit people and places (museums though are closed ). So we’ll be doing more of that during the next month. And of course we’re cooking. We haven’t gone so far as to go back to our weekly meal plans, since that seems like way too much work (how did we manage that?!). Also, since restaurants are still open for lunch, we are trying to support them as much as possible (a sacrifice I know!).

What's New

This month has been all about olive oil. After the last 5 years of really bad harvests due to weather, our trees were full this year. We harvested almost 500 kilos of olives and produced 55 liters of oil! (You can see the process here, and how it's changed over the years here and here.) We’re not the only ones to have had a bumper year, both in terms of quality and quantity. Sophie and I have been visiting our friends at other mills around Umbria to taste their oil and it’s all excellent!

Another reason we’ve been visiting the mills is to work on our upcoming Week in Umbria trips. We include a full day spent learning about and tasting olive oil, and are always on the lookout for ways to make our experiences even better. If you’d like to join us next year, we’d love to expand your olive oil horizons too! (and your waist). Just send me an email to find out more details.

While travel restrictions are still in place, we’re all looking forward to more than ever to next year and roaming the world again. You can read about all of our upcoming tours here, and start fantasizing and even planning. We can’t wait to get back to Puglia, Sicily, Parma and Abruzzo, and hope you can come with us. I'm happy to send you more details.

Where I've Been

I managed a trip to Florence last month, to visit my friend Rolando again. And true to the season we dove into vats of freshly pressed oil. Rolando’s company, Manicaretti, is one of most important importers of high quality Italian food into the USA. His company was one of the first to promote and import artisinally produced pasta and if you’re ever enjoyed Rustichella Pasta it is thanks to him. They also were the first ones to import and promote Olio Nuovo, freshly pressed olive oil. This way their clients could enjoy the same experience of that incredible green oil that Italians do this time of year. Rolando and I visited two of his producers, Frescobaldi and Capezzana. You can see all of my adventures on the highlights of my Instagram Stories here. And don’t worry, below you’ll find a link to buy these and other great olive oils, delivered right to your door.

Sophie came to pick me up in Tuscany and after a walk around the Frescobaldi estate of Nipozzano (you can stay there too!) , we had a leisurely drive back to Umbria. The highlight was definitely our stop in Cortona, which I hadn’t been to in ages. Usually crowded with tourists, the hill town was deserted. Thank goodness the best restaurant in town was open. Our lunch at La Bucaccia di Romano was fabulous! Located in a stone-lined, cave-like space, the atmosphere was warm and jovial and Romano welcomed us with open arms. Since it was truffle season we had truffles on just about everything. The best part was the table side tiramisu production. I’m working on editing a video of it, so stay tuned.

As I said I also made a quick trip down to Rome. The highlight (besides my highlights) was ordering in from one of my favorite restaurants in Rome: Armando al Pantheon. Like restaurants all over the world, they are struggling to survive. This is the kind of restaurant that would never have considered home delivery before, so it was a complete honor and treat to be able to dine on their fabulous food in the comfort of my own home. I loved the fact that rather than deliver the pasta already cooked, which of course would have been either overcooked or cold by the time it arrived, they send a kit with pasta, sauce, cheese and freshly ground toasted pepper. It was beyond perfect!!!

I went to Trevi twice this month because it’s celery season. I know that sounds boring, but it’s anything but. And it’s not normal celery. You can read all about it here.

What I'm Reading

I finished Elena Ferrante’s newest The Lying Life of Adults. Like her previous books it was a deep dive in the dark world of her tormented characters. I definitely appreciated the writing, and the story was well crafted, if a bit dark for me in these times.

LOVED Lisa Jewel’s latest Invisible Girl. While also on the dark side, it was a good page turning read which I needed this past week

I finally read one of Andrea Camillieri’s books, The Shape of Water, since so many of you recommended them. Sorry, but I totally don’t get it. The charm escaped me and I couldn’t care less what happened.

You’re not the only one wishing they could move to Italy. Sorry to say, I don’t have the answers. But my friend Thea does.

Are you starting to think of Christmas Shopping? I know it’s easy to just order a book from Amazon, but try to support small bookshops, which are struggling. My sister Jodi works here and is happy to take your orders and ship anything you need. Or support your local bookshop. They will be more than happy to mail out all of your gifts.

What I'm Drinking

Welcome to a new section on this newsletter!! I mean really, how did this not exist before??? I figure it’s an appropriate time to launch this section since we’ll either be drinking in celebration or to numb ourselves in the next few days (or hours!). Who knows? Who cares as long as we can all have a cocktail at the end of the day. I’ll include a new cocktail each month, with a recipe. Hope that sounds good to you. If you end up making it, let me know and tag me on Instagram

White Negroni
I’ve been wanted to make this for a long time, but could never find the right bitters to substitute the Campari. I finally landed on a bottle of Genziana, a super bitter licqueur made by this small company in Abruzzo. Genziana is an amaro that uses Gentian root as it’s main flavoring. It is known to help digestion and is VERY bitter.

White Negroni
1 oz Genziana
1 oz White Sweet Vermouth
1 oz Gin
1 slice orange

Pour into small rocks glass, stir and add a few cubes of ice and orange slice.

What I'm Eating

I’ve not only filled the house with pumpkins - both decorative and edible - we’ve also been eating them like crazy. I love simply roasting them with a sage pesto on top. Sophie also made a delicious Pumpkin Lasagna which you can see here.

This month as I said, it’s been ALL about freshly pressed olive oil. There is nothing like it. Olio Nuovo, as it’s known here, is considered ‘nuovo’ until January 1 or so. It’s not as if the oil goes bad, it’s just that the taste begins to mellow a bit. So if you really like that biting, peppery and fruity taste, it really is worth searching out a bottle. And then enjoying it immediately! The best way is of course on bruschetta or pinzimonio (raw vegetables like celery). Another excellent use is drizzled (generously) on top of soup, like my favorite bean soup or this fabulous Kale and Lentil soup.

Here is a list of places that you can order freshly pressed Italian olive oil from right now:

Market Hall
Fresh from Frantoi
Montioni
Olio2Go

And finally.....

I know I haven’t mentioned the election. I just can’t go there. I couldn’t write this letter earlier in the week because I was too distracted. Now I’ve found release from the stress in actually writing this today. As I’m sending this out we still don’t know the outcome. (Which is why I’ve included a cocktail recipe.) In any case I hope you find distraction and/or comfort here today.

And just in case you didn’t read my last instagram post: I just wanted to let everyone know that until further notice the portion size of pasta for one person has been changed from 100 grams to the entire pack. This was an executive decision and I feel I made the right call. Here’s hoping that these emergency measures will only be needed till the end of the week.

See you on the other side!

x,Elizabeth

Click the image to buy