February 2024 News from Elizabeth in Rome
Spas, Radicchio + Sleeping in a Cave
As I’m finishing up this newsletter, a message with a link to an article just popped up on my screen.
The message: ‘Did you read this? She is not wrong, but perhaps she should have chosen other words.
The article: ‘Mass tourism has turned Florence into a ‘prostitute’ museum boss says, sparking outrage.’
Easily distracted by any kind of racy headline (especially when I should be writing this newsletter), I immediately clicked through. The article is about the sad state of over-tourism in the center of Italian cities, specifically Florence. I definitely agree with my friend: I guess the museum director could have used another word, but frankly, I think she thought about it and decided she needed the element of shock to bring light to the current situation of over-tourism in major Italian cities. This newsletter (and my social media) is usually a very positive space. If you know me, then you know I am definitely a glass-half-full kind of person. When I see very touristy shops opening all over Rome, my response isn’t to complain, but to try to highlight the old-fashioned places that somehow manage to survive. My hope is that featuring the trattorias, bakeries, butchers, shoemakers, and house-dress stores, will bring them more clients. But even I realize that in cities like Rome, Venice, and Florence, it will take governmental action to protect these precious resources before Italy transforms into a Disneyland. In my own neighborhood of Monti in Rome, I have seen firsthand the tourist trade take over almost all the small mom-and-pop stores and restaurants, and the same thing is happening in Florence.
“Once a city becomes a prostitute, it is difficult for it to become a virgin again,” Hollberg, a German art historian who has been head of the [Accademia] museum since 2015, told reporters Monday on the sidelines of a press conference laying out the museum’s successes.
“We no longer find a shop, a normal shop, but only things exclusively for tourists with gadgets and souvenirs and this should be stopped,” she added.
The museum director’s choice of words was admittedly inflammatory and had the desired effect, with politicians chiming in right and left. What is sad - but not unexpected - is that ALL of the politicians are attacking her personally (it’s worth noting she is a woman and not Italian), and so far, no one has come forward and agreed with the fundamental truth of what she said.
In the meantime? I’ll keep bringing you positive ways you can help support sustainable and regenerative tourism. Whether it’s through a tour with us, cooking a nonna’s recipe, or heading off the beaten track to buy a traditional house dress. We’ll keep fighting the fight one old-fashioned cheese grater or ceramic dish at a time.
WHAT’S NEW
Speaking of Florence and keeping it real, I was up in Florence at the end of November. Domenico and I had lunch with a friend, and we were all chatting about how there are whole neighborhoods of the city that no one visits. Everyone is just focused on the same few small blocks in the historic center. But there are still wonderful areas, not far from the center, where you can still shop at the small local stores (food stores for sure, but also artisans) that keep these areas alive. Although I have often said I would never bring a group to Florence, my friend convinced me that there is an important story to be shared. I’ll be announcing the new Florence tour this month to readers of my premium newsletter. I expect the tour to sell out fast, so make sure you are signed up for the paying version if you’d like a chance to join us in Florence next fall.
If you’re signed up for the premium version of this newsletter, then you already know we’ve just announced a brand-new tour. It’s a new version of the 5-day Bari tour that Sophie has been leading for the last few years. We decided that a day tour to Matera was just not enough to truly experience this magical town, so our new tour includes a 2-night stay in one of the most unique hotels in Italy: Sextantio. During the first part of the tour in Bari you’ll have a chance to explore Puglia’s capital with Sophie (who spent much of her childhood vacations there with her nonna), but also take day trips to small towns like Alberobello, Monopoli and Cisternino. You’ll also learn the secrets of Bari’s famous Spaghetti alla Assasina when Sophie takes you to the same place she visited with Stanley Tucci. And finally: a chance to go to sleep in a luxurious cave and wake up in the most unique town in Italy. The tour takes place November 3-9, 2024. If you’d like more details, click the link below.
We’ve also just announced a few tours hosted by our friends and colleagues. Dr. Annie Fenn, the author of Brain Health Kitchen, will be leading two tours to Sicily next October: one based in Ortigia and one in Palermo. Annie’s tours bring together the philosophy (and healthy deliciousness ) of the Sicilian way of eating along with the benefits of a brain-healthy lifestyle. You can read more about it here, or click the link below to receive both brochures. If you sign up for both tours, Eastern and Western Sicily, you will receive a 5% discount.
We are also excited to be working with our friend Adam Roberts. You may know him better as The Amateur Gourmet. Adam was one of the very first food bloggers and began his website way back in 2004! Hard to believe that was 20 years ago. He’s since written several cookbooks and currently writes a fantastic Substack newsletter. We’ve curated the perfect Puglia trip, which he’ll be hosting next October. Click below to receive a brochure with all the details.
For our full schedule of tours, visit this page. We still have some spots left with Sophie and me for 2024, to Sicily and Puglia.
(if the above brochure links don’t open into your email program, just write us at minchillitours@gmail.com)
WHERE I’VE BEEN
January is my month off, and it’s when I take the time to travel that has nothing to do with my regular work trips. Usually, when I’m traveling in Italy, it’s to research upcoming tours. Don’t get me wrong, I love this kind of ‘research’, and everyone should be so lucky. But sometimes, I just want to relax and not think about anything much. Which is why we just spent four days in the little piece of heaven that is Saturnia.
Domenico and I have visited this spa a few times and just love it. It’s an easy 2-hour drive up from Rome, and if you are looking for a spa experience in Italy, I definitely recommend it. Since the natural pool is a very warm 37.5C/98F, it’s the perfect winter escape, and we always plan our trip in January or February when it’s half empty.
If you decide to go to Saturnia, there are a few ways to do it. We always opt for the luxurious route, by staying in the Terme di Saturnia. The hot springs date back to Roman times and the Hotel Terme di Saturnia is located directly over the source of the water, where it bubbles up the hottest, at 37.5 C. The main draw for staying in this hotel is that you get full access to the huge thermal pool and can basically just wander around in your bathrobe, going in and out of the pool all day long.
Another option is to stay in one of the many agriturismi in the area and visit the thermal park, which is the public part of the hotel. There are various entrance fees, and the most expensive level (Club) also grants you access to the upper pool. You can also book treatments in the spa. We always run into friends who have houses in the area who come for the day.
If you do go, here are a few practical tips:
Visit in the cold months of January/February since the pool is very hot and there aren’t so many people.
The price of rooms is lower during the week, and there are fewer people, so avoid the weekends if possible.
Book your spa treatments ahead of time. We each had one or two treatments per day. Massages are great and I loved my facial.
Personally, I love having a room overlooking the thermal pool. But some of the other suites look over the garden and are very nice too.
Meals:
Breakfast is included in the price of the room, so we always had a big breakfast. The breakfast buffet is great, and we basically skipped lunch (I sometimes had a smoothie or a piece of fruit) and arrived at dinner with a big appetite.
1919: This is the hotel’s main restaurant, which is pretty good. We had dinner there twice and loved the big roasted sea bass we had on our final night. There is also something very relaxing about having dinner in the hotel. (don’t show up in your robe, though!)
La Stellata: This is the trattoria owned by the hotel and located across the golf course. The hotel will drive you there, so you don’t even have to use your car. It’s a bit more relaxed than 1919 and has good rustic Tuscan food.
Ristorante da Mario: Located in the nearby village of Saturnia (it’s only an 8-minute drive), we’ve been to this small trattoria several times. We always ask for the table next to the open grill in this cozy, family-run place. Known for its grilled meat, we usually order the bistecca alla Fiorentina.
I Due Cippi: We had always wanted to go here but only managed to get reservations this past trip. It was definitely one of the best meals we’ve had in recent memory. It’s a steak restaurant, so be prepared to eat meat. (Although people at the other tables ordered their signature cacio e pepe and other vegetables). They get meat from all over the world and age them in massive aging refrigerators. We loved it! Definitely worth reserving ahead of time.
If you have any other specific questions about staying in Saturnia, just ask me in the comments. And please leave comments about your own Italian spa experiences! And just in case you’re curious, here’s a video of what a typical day looks like.
WHAT I’M READING
How have I never known about Octavia Butler? Among her many accomplishments, she was the first science fiction writer to receive a MacArthur. I just finished her dystopian novel Parable of the Sower, which I loved, even though it was incredibly depressing. The fact that it takes place in the ‘near future’ of 2024 makes it even more disturbing.
After that, I decided I needed something a bit lighter, and Emma recommended Before the Coffee Gets Cold, a short, quirky novel translated from the original Japanese. I’m halfway through and loving it.
As someone who ONLY wears sneakers, this is the article I was waiting for.
An interesting article about indigenous tourism.
If you want to avoid the crowds in Venice, the best way is to head out onto the lagoon. Here is a great guide for doing that.
I’m not reading it yet, but I’ve pre-ordered a copy, and I’m very much looking forward to Kacie Rose’s new book, You Deserve Good Gelato. Way to go, Kacie! Also, I love the title, which I 100% agree with.
Interesting take on what it means to be a sommelier in today’s world when a lot of people are turning to natural wine. (While you’re there, sign up for Alice’s fabulous newsletter)
WHAT I’M EATING
Radicchio has got to be one of my favorite winter vegetables. I just checked my blog, and I’ve got at least a dozen recipes. But lately, I’ve been getting a lot of questions from people about how to eat radicchio since they often find it too bitter.
Tips for taking out the bitter:
For salads, choose one of the less bitter varieties of radicchio. I love Radicchio di Castelfranco (the light pink kind), Varigato di Lusisa (white with magenta specks), or Rosso di Treviso (kind of long and bullet-shaped).
Although it’s tempting to keep the gorgeous leaves intact, it’s much better to cut them with a sharp knife into strips and give them a good soak in cold water before using them in a salad. This will leach out much of the bitterness. It also saves you the hassle of having to cut your salad with a fork and knife, which really bothers me.
When making a radicchio salad, there is always going to be some bitterness. That’s why it’s nice to dress it with something sweet, like balsamico, and include fruit (berries, apples, citrus).
If all you can find is the small, deep magenta, tight ball of radicchio (Radicchio di Chioggia), which is what most stores carry, you can cook the bitterness out of it. I almost never use this variety in a salad since it’s too bitter and too tough. Instead, I cut it into quarters, slather it with olive oil, and salt it, then roast it at 350F until it’s tender and just starting to brown. Drizzle with your best balsamico.
Here are a few of my favorite recipes:
Have any other radicchio questions? I’m happy to answer them in the comments below. Also, I’m curious: Are you able to find radicchio easily where you live? If so, which kind? Let me know!
x, Elizabeth
We were so disappointed at the amount of not only tourists, but the plethora of American chain shops in Venice. Yes, we were also tourists, but we stayed for three days and chose local places to dine during our time there. The new "day tripper" fee of a few euro is hardly likely to dissuade anyone from visiting for the day, especially with cruise ships docking nearby.
Thanks for your thoughts about Florence becoming a "prostitute" city. I can also understand the sentiment, especially for local residents just trying to live their lives! I love Florence (and Rome) and always try to find the mom & pop shops by reading blogs like yours, Girl in Florence, Curious Appetite, etc. I don't have a solution, but I know it's a problem. I certainly don't think she should be attacked for stating her opinion, though it may have been a bit harsh. The problem is real!