I think my brain is already in vacation mode. I’m actually writing this newsletter a week ahead of time because I will be cruising in and out of the fjords of Norway by the time you’re reading this. I’m taking a much needed vacation where not only will I be not working (not sure exactly sure how to do that? ) but I also hope to be wearing one of the cute cardigans I bought for the trip.
I certainly won’t be needing any sweaters any time soon here in Rome. After weeks of unseasonably daily rain and weirdly cool temps, the summer has arrived. It’s supposed to be 98F / 37C today and frankly the only thing I can think of ingesting is ice tea with lemon granita floating in it. Doesn’t that sound good? Yesterday I swear I thought I was going to faint and the only thing that allowed me to keep going was this combo.
What’s your favorite drink to cool off in the summer? I love this, this and this and all of these. I wonder what I’ll be drinking in Norway? I might not even need any ice. A girl can hope.
WHAT’S NEW
It’s June and our week-long tours have come to an end until September. One of the reasons we take a break is because - well, we need a break! But the 2 main reasons we don’t have tours in the summer is to avoid the heat (as I mentioned above) and the crowds. June and July are busy months for tourism in Italy, and this year seems to be breaking all previous records. But we realize that many people (especially those with kids or teachers and professors) are tied to academic schedules. So even though we aren’t currently doing any week long tours, Sophie is very much working leading market tours in Rome this month. But even Sophie is taking off at the end of July.
Travel tip: If you are traveling in Italy in August plan on taking things really slow. And be aware that August 15 is a national holiday. On that specific day many restaurants are closed and all museums. This year the 15th falls on a Tuesday, so the country will be pretty much shut down the entire week. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
As many of you know our tours usually fill up very quickly and way ahead of time to subscribers to the premium version of this newsletter. But that also means that 6-4 months before the start of our tours - when the balance becomes due - we often have a handful of last minute spaces that open up. So I’m happy to let you know that if you’d like to join us this fall 2023, we have a few spots available on the following tours:
Puglia with Sophie Sept 17-23, 2023: 3 spots available
Puglia with Elizabeth & Sophie Oct 8-14, 2023: 2 spots available
Parma with Evan Kleiman Oct 22-29, 2023: 3 spots available
Umbria with Elizabeth & Sophie Nov 5-11, 2023: 1 spot available
Send Emma an email through the link below (or else directly to minchillitours@gmail.com) and she will send you the brochures for all of these tours (or let her know specifically which ones you are interested in)
We’ve slowly been announcing our tours for 2024, and although many are already sold out, we still have some spots left for our Bari-based tour. Since Puglia is such a long region, we base this tour in the town of Bari, which allows us to explore further north into Basilicata. In fact, one of the highlights of this tour is the day we spend in Matera. We’ve even organized a special candlelit feast in a cave for lunch. There is also a burrata-making lesson (and LOTS of burrata eating); a visit to a private home in the Unesco World Heritage town of Alberobello; lunch in a butcher shop; and, of course, a visit to the famous pasta nonnas of Bari Vecchia. We have three dates for the Puglia tour in March, April, and May. Click the link below to receive the brochure and also to take advantage of a special 10% discount on the price of the tour. The discount is in effect for only the next 2 weeks.
WHERE I’VE BEEN
Domenico and I had a mini vacation in June to Venice. Normally I would never ever think of visiting Venice in June. Too crowded and too hot. But I was invited by the kind folks at Marriott to come stay at their resort (full disclosure: I was their guest). The JW Marriott Venice is located on its own island and is more of a resort than a classic Venice palazzo type hotel. Usually what I like about Venice is staying right in the center of things but this time of year staying on a private island surrounded by water sounded just about right.
During our time there we managed to do a lot. We ate and drank at the rooftop restaurant Sagra. (killer cocktails!). We lounged by the rooftop infinity pool while looking at the Venetian skyline. We spent a blissful afternoon at the spa getting massaged and floating in the therapy pools. They even prepared a picnic just for us amid the olive groves. One of the highlights though was dinner at Agli Amici Dopolavoro. The restaurant is now under the direction of Michelin starred chef Emanuele Scarello and we had an absolutely stellar meal. It was a tasting menu that featured fish (of course) and produce from the restaurant’s own garden. A truly memorable meal that featured a full cocktail experience on the terrace in the vegetable garden as the sun went down.
Since you’re probably wondering: It was super easy to get back and forth to the downtown Venice. There is a shuttle that leaves every 30 minutes and the ride is obviously fun and only takes 20 minutes and lets you off right at San Marco. I would definitely recommend staying here during summer months when you want to escape both heat and crowds. I also think it’s the perfect place to stay with kids, since there is a swimming pool and lots of space for them to run around. They even have a special kids club that is like a summer camp where the kids can hang out on their own while you are busy day drinking by the adults-only rooftop pool. And if you’re not staying here? A special trip just to eat or drink at the rooftop Sagra or spend a pampering day at the spa is super easy . And Agli Amici Dopolavoro is most definitely worth a special dinner out.
I’ve been sharing lots of videos of my time there on TikTok (@elizabeth_minchilli) and Instagram and will continue to share more over the next few weeks. But if you have any questions, just ask below, and I’ll be happy to answer.
WHAT I’M READING
I needed a few beach reads for our vacation and my sister recommended Golden Girl by Elin Hilderbrand. She said she couldn’t put it down, so I’ve got high hopes.
I just received a copy of Anya Von Bremzen’s new book National Dish. I’ve had the pleasure of calling Anya a friend for over 20 years and I can’t wait to read her latest. In it she writes about what exactly makes a dish a national one. In other words: how does food define our identity?
Speaking of national identity and the role food plays, I love this story about the mixing of cultures in Naples where a spin on traditional neopolitan pastry is meeting the needs of immigrants from North Africa.
Another book I have ready to read on my kindle is the Alexander Stille’s The Sullivanians. It’s about a psychotherapy cult on the Upper West Side of Manhattan that was active from the 1970s - 90s. I mean who knew??
Should there be a dress code for flying? The thinking is that the better you dress , the better you behave. What do you think? (leave a comment below, I’m curious)
Playing with your food has never looked so cute.
I know we are all used to dealing with the very Italian air and train strikes but a pasta strike? No, grazie.
Very very very old pizza.
AND FINALLY…
I loved being interviewed by the Thrillist about my ‘perfectly boring life.’
Sophie had a Spritz with Giada last week. No biggie.
Sophie was asked by the small Italian based make up company Espressoh to make a video with their lipsticks. It will make you smile.
x,Elizabeth
Air travel, particularly longer international flights, is uncomfortable in one way or another no matter which class you're flying in. When I fly in the summer to Italy, business or economy, I wear the same thing every year - jeans, a basic grey t-shirt, a light cardigan, and my superga sneakers. It's a casual outfit to be sure, but given that the last few years we've had delays of 8+ hours, arrived in 90+ degrees, had to run through train stations, rebook tickets, etc. all with 2 kids in tow, there's just no way I could "dress up" on a flight and still get to the final destination with my sanity intact.
Would I like to be in a skirt? Sure, but then I'd worry about flashing everyone on the plane as I tried to get comfortable to sleep even just a tiny bit. No WAY am I wearing heels or pantyhose. And as far as I have observed, Italy is not fully embracing the "wear exercise leggings at all time regardless of the occasion" lifestyle, so I don't dress like that when I'm there either.
Always enjoy your news. Please keep it up. And "stay cool" this summer.