June 2021 News from Elizabeth
I began writing a monthly newsletter over 5 years ago as a place to write about food and travel and the the cultural point where the two intersect. While I always enjoy writing it, since it feels more or less like a personal letter, the last 15 months has been a bit challenging to say the least. While I know the last year and a half has been difficult on many levels for everyone, this month marks some positive changes: I can finally write about travel again!!
After closing down its borders to tourists over a year ago, Italy is slowly opening back up and I couldn’t be happier. Travelers from the USA can now come to Italy on special flights that eliminate the need to quarantine. The process is a bit complicated for now, and involves multiple tests at both ends, but I’ve had a lot of friends who have arrived in the past 2 weeks and have reported back that while a bit more challenging than travel in the ‘before times’, it was a small price to pay to be able to come here. (At the moment Alitalia, American and Delta are flying).
I won’t write the specific details of requirements here, since they are constantly being updated, but the good news is that the process should only get easier. It’s predicted that by some time in June a simple proof of vaccination should be sufficient to enter.
Things here in Italy are opening up quickly. Most of the country is either Yellow (very low restrictions) or White (almost no restrictions) with the entire country looking to be White by June. Indoor dining is opening up, and trains, planes and hotels are getting ready for a big summer. The curfew is currently 11pm, but is set to move to midnight next week and finally disappear on June 24. All this has been made possible by the robust vaccine program that is going incredibly well. In other words: the numbers are all good.
And tourists are definitely starting to arrive. While I enjoyed having Rome to myself during the last few months, I am beyond thrilled to hear voices in the streets again. Even though the city is still pretty empty, the days of being the only person at the Trevi Fountain are already a distant memory. And while I am truly appreciative of the memories of Rome in this strange time, I was getting kind of lonely. So welcome back you!!
WHAT’S NEW
Sophie has been leading tours in Rome again! At first she thought that some of the restrictions might pose problems, but it’s been going very smoothly. One plus is that there are still so few people around, which makes wandering around the markets, popping in and out of bakeries, wine bars and butchers actually easier than it was before. And the weather has been so great, that it’s a joy to do tastings outside. Sophie has also been finalizing all the plans for her 3-day Rome Food Tours. The first one is in September. If you’d like to join her just send me an email and I’ll forward all the delicious details.
While most of our Week in Italy tours for the Fall 2021 are full, there have been a few last minute cancellations. So I now have a couple of spots for our Week in Puglia at the end of October as well as our Culinary and Craft Retreat with Evan Kleiman in September . Send me an email for details Abruzzo or Puglia.
Big News: Since our Week in Italy Tours for 2022 are almost all sold out, I’ve decided to add another tour to Sicily. I haven’t even posted about it yet, so you are the first to know! March 13-19, 2022 Melissa Clark of the New York Times will be joining me for a Culinary Retreat in Sicily. We’ll be based in a lovely farm near Vittoria where we’ll be cooking, eating and visiting the amazing small towns, wineries and food producers in that part of the world. Our last two nights will be in the ancient town of Ortigia. Let me know if you’d like the details.
I’ve also confirmed the dates for 6 tours in 2023 because it’s never too early to start dreaming. You can find the full schedule for 2021-2023 here and send me an email for all of our brochures.
WHERE I’VE BEEN
I can’t tell you how great it was to finally visit Nonna in Bari. We hadn’t been there since last September! She turned 99 in May and we were able to help her celebrate. You’ll be happy to know she is in great spirits and was, of course, so happy to see us after so long.
I had a one night Staycation at the newly opened Hoxton in Rome. This chic modern hotel is located in the Villa Borghese neighborhood, so it’s a nice quiet location. I love the design which is both modern and bit retro. And even if you’re not staying there, it’s a lovely place to meet up for a cocktail.
We also went into the Roman countryside for the day, up to have a walk around Lake Bracciano, which was lovely. Then a long lazy lunch at Osteria Iotta, in the charming town of Campagnagna di Roma. Although we were only 40 minutes away from downtown Rome, it felt like a mini vacation
I’ve got big travel plans this month. Tomorrow Domenico, Sophie and I are going to Modena, to have dinner at Massimo Bottura’s La Francescana. (you might remember him from the first episode of Chef’s Table) A HUGE treat but hey, why not? I hope I remember how to get dressed up. Also, does anyone know where I put my lipstick?
I’ll also be traveling to Abruzzo, Parma and Sicily this month to finalize plans for all of our fall tours. I am SO EXCITED that I can’t stop writing in ALL CAPS!! I get to take trains, fly on planes and stay in hotels. Woo hoo!! Also? My sister is coming to Sicily with me so that makes it extra special. Make sure you’re following along on Instagram to see what I’m up to.
WHAT I’M READING
I love a good summer book list.
Speaking of books, this past month so many memories popped up on FB from my book tours over the last few years. Loved seeing all the images of me surrounded by lots of people celebrating Eating My Way Through Italy and The Italian Table.
My sister Jodi (a.k.a. Miss Jodi)has convinced me to read The Song of Achilles, so that’s up next on my Kindle. Which I guess will be followed by Circe. Have you read either? I realize I’m late to this game.
FYI: My friend Elyssa’s site is a good source for what’s going on at the moment in terms of travel rules in Italy.
Everything you ever wanted to know about onions and their kin.
WHAT I’M HEARING & WATCHING
If you’d like to practice your Italian this podcast Veleno is fascinating. And horrific. And I can’t stop listening to it.
Get into the Italian summer mood with this.
How did I only now discover the Audm app? So much fun being able to listen to articles from The New Yorker, New York Times, Vanity Fair etc. while I’m walking
Really looking forward to watching High on the Hog
WHAT I’M EATING
Our cherry trees are on overdrive this year in Umbria. So far I’ve made this compote to put on top of a chocolate cake someone gave us. But I’m also going to make the Ricotta Cake, with cherries instead of strawberries. Or else this tart. Or both? I vote for both.
It’s also been a great season for wild asparagus up in Umbria. I made this vegetarian version of Carbonara with a big bunch. If you don’t have wild asparagus, you can use regular.
AND FINALLY…
Even more than eating and cooking - and even traveling- what I’m the most excited about is actually the people I’m doing all this with. It’s been such a joy to finally have people over to our house, to get out to restaurants. And to once again gather around the table with friends. I hope you have been able to be with loved ones too.
x, Elizabeth
PS: I would just like to brag that this Newsletter which is supposed to go out on the 1st of the month is actually going out on June 1. Also? I think I actually got the date and month right, which is not a given.
This is my monthly newsletter, which is free of charge. Recent newsletters for paid subscribers included podcasts on Gelato and Aceto Balsamico; discussions about Olive Oil and Italian Ceramics (including discount codes); and Sunday Lunch plans with menus and recipes. If you’d like to upgrade your subscription tap below. If not….then I’ll see you next month!
Quick question - What is the appetizer in the photo? It looks like mortadella but I cannot tell what it is wrapped around. I would really appreciate you sharing that - those look so good!