May 2025: News from Elizabeth
Italian Holidays, Ceramic Obsessions and Panini Wisdom
🌼 Happy May Day!
Today marks the end of what I call “those Italian spring holidays I always forget about.” You’d think a digital calendar would help—but somehow, spring holidays still sneak up on me. Back in my market tour days in Rome, I once showed up at Campo dei Fiori ready to guide my group... and found no market. Because it was April 25. Which meant nothing to me—until it did.
Now, while planning week-long tours across Italy, I’ve learned to account for not just national holidays but also regional festas. Like that one day in November when the entire town of Todi shuts down to celebrate its patron saint. I only discovered this while stuck outside town with a full tour bus and nowhere to go—because the only road in was closed... to partying locals. Solution? Of course we got out and joined in.
Unlike the US or UK—where holidays often shift to Mondays (Bank Holidays, long weekends)—Italy doesn’t budge. If a holiday lands mid-week? No problem. We just build a ponte (a "bridge") to the nearest weekend. With Good Friday, Easter Monday, Liberation Day, and now May 1 all packed together, the last two weeks have been one long ponte. As my sister just said on our daily Facetime “You guys have holidays coming out the wazoo.”
If this sounds like a complaint—it’s not. I’m 100% Team Ponte. Italy’s not just defined by cuisine or monuments, but by how it enjoys life. Dolce far niente isn’t just a phrase—it’s a lifestyle. And one I’m very good at if I do say so myself. 🥰
✨WHAT’S NEW
April was busy tour-wise! I spent a spectacular week in Florence co-hosting what’s probably our fanciest tour with my friend Rolando. We stay in a luxe hotel and get access to private palaces and gardens—but we also sneak away to local trattorias, hidden neighborhoods, and even working farms. Our next Florence tour is in October (sold out!), but I’ll announce 2026 spring dates this month in my paying version of this Newsletter.
Sophie was in Puglia twice last month, hosting one tour in Salento and another in Bari & Matera. Our guest hosts have been busy too, with Evan Klieman hosted a week in Puglia and Zoe Francois is currently leading her intrepid guests on the search for the best cannoli in Sicily. You can keep up with all of our tours by following Via Rosa on Instagram.
🧳 We still have a few Fall 2025 spots open:
Sophie and I are co-hosting two Umbria tours in November 2025 (here and here)
Only 2 spots left on each
Taste olive oil minutes after pressing, and—exclusive to this tour—visit our own home
👀 Sneak Peek: Eastern Sicily 2026
We’re rolling out the 2026 schedule and kicking things off with our Eastern Sicily tour. I’ve added a few new adventures:
A water-powered flour mill inside a cave
Visit to my favorite orange liqueur maker
Extra cannoli time (never enough, honestly)
📆 More for 2026 coming soon
Make sure you’re signed up for the paying version of this newsletter to be the first to know about new tours. I’ll be rolling out new dates over the next two months. There will be tours hosted by me, by Sophie and by some new surprise guest hosts!
🏛 WHERE I’VE BEEN
As mentioned, I spent a week in Florence in April with our guests. I co-host the tour with my bestie Rolando, and the experience is a blend of his Florence and mine. His side includes exclusive visits to palaces, gardens and some of his favorite food producers, while mine involves (obviously) food—and shopping. One of our favorite stops is a ceramic studio just steps from the Duomo, which happens to be one of my personal obsessions. For those of you who share my love for ceramics, here’s my go-to list when in Florence
🏺 Florence Ceramic Guide
If, like me, you’re ceramic-obsessed, don’t miss these shops next time you’re in Florence:
📚 WHAT I’M READING
I’m about a third of the way through By Any Other Name by Jodi Picoult. It’s not quite as “easy” as some of her earlier books, but it’s worth the effort. The novel explores the idea that a woman may have written Shakespeare’s plays—fascinating stuff.
I got a sneak peek Food Person by Adam Roberts, out May 20. It’s a hilarious behind-the-scenes look at what happens when a ghostwriter is hired to write a cookbook for a celebrity actress. Pure fun.
And because I love giving (and receiving) gifts—my closet is full of “just in case” presents (mostly food and ceramics)—here’s a great recommendation: Jenny Rosenstrach has fantastic gift ideas if you're looking for inspiration.
Curious about April 25th and why it’s such a big deal in Italy? Emiko Davies has an excellent post — and a pasta recipe, too.
Everyone always asks if there is a version of me in France that they can turn to for restaurant recommendations. The person I always turn to, Lindsey Tramuta, has just published The Eater Guide to Paris.
📺 WHAT I’M WATCHING
Like seemingly everyone else, as we near the next election of the new pope, we will be rewatching Conclave.
My comfort binge right now is Call the Midwife. If Conclave reminded me why I never want anything to do with the Catholic Church, Call the Midwife kind of makes me want to join a convent.
Adolescence absolutely blew us away. The story, the acting, and—most impressively—the cinematography: each episode was filmed in a single continuous take.
🥪 WHAT I’M EATING
I go through lunch phases. There was my fennel salad phase. Then the “sardines with everything” phase. Lately? Sandwiches. Which is strange for me, but I’ve been working a lot, and by 1:00 PM I’m starving. The easiest fix when I’m in Rome? Cross the street to the market and get a panino from Marta. She mixes it up every time, and honestly, I love letting her decide.
Here are a few Marta-inspired tips if you find yourself in a sandwich phase too:
Condiments:
In the U.S., it’s all mustard and mayo. Marta never uses either. Instead here are her go-to schmears:
Pesto - Just a thin coating with provide herby oil
Ricotta - Think of it as a creamier version of mayo
Pistachio pesto - Harder to get, but worth it for the nuttiness
Sun-dried tomato pesto - Adds that umami punch
Less is more:
One slice of perfect mortadella, prosciutto, or pecorino is plenty. No one needs a quarter pound of anything.
Vegetables:
Skip the lettuce. Go for a silky slice of grilled, marinated zucchini or eggplant instead.
Wishing you a joyful May filled with asparagus, sunshine, panini, and at least one well-deserved ponte.
x,Elizabeth
Love this! Reminds me of the Mortadella Focaccia sandwich recipe I adapted from L.A.-based Roman cuisine restaurant Mother Wolf for easy home cooking!
check it out:
https://thesecretingredient.substack.com/p/recreating-evan-funkes-la-mortazza
Adolescence was stunning. A hard topic, but as you said, the acting (those kids!!!) and film making was extraordinary.