News from Elizabeth: April 2026
A Walk in Rome; Meatballs & Tomato Sauce; and Talking to Strangers
TALKING TO STRANGERS
We used to make fun of my mother because she would strike up a conversation with just about anyone. Kidding around, we said the only reason she went on cruises was that she had thousands of people trapped and could literally talk with all of them.
When she visited me in Rome, she would come home after a day of sightseeing. She wouldn’t tell me about the things she saw like the Sistine Chapel, the Roman Forum, the Caravaggios. No, she would tell me about the couple she met in line at Villa Borghese, the woman sitting at the table next to her at the trattoria, or the taxi driver who brought her home.
“The taxi driver spoke English?” I’d ask.
“No, but we had a long conversation anyway.”
It was only recently that I realized I have not only become my mother, I’ve actually made a career out of it.
When people ask me the best part about my job running a food tour company, they expect me to go on about eating freshly made ricotta, sipping balsamico tradizionale straight from the barrel, or milling our own grain to turn it into pasta. Yes, that’s all great, but for me the real draw is getting to catch up with Gino, the ricotta maker; Angela, a fifth-generation balsamico producer; or Luigi, who tends the water-driven flour mill.
But I’ve also come to realize that it’s a chance to get to know people from all over the world—people I would never have met if they hadn’t joined me on a tour. While my guests are here to meet food artisans and learn about the culture that surrounds it, I’m just as fascinated by their lives back home. What do they cook? How do they shop? And what do they do for a living? I find that endlessly interesting.
Giuseppe, one of the farmers we visit in Sicily, summed it up perfectly: “I run a farm, so I can’t really travel since I have animals to take care of. So when you bring a group of guests here, it’s like I’m on vacation—meeting new people and hearing their stories.”
Which is, I guess, the same thing my mother was telling me all those years ago. I just didn’t realize I was listening so carefully.
WHAT’S NEW
We’ve had a busy March! Via Rosa hosted six tours last month—to Sicily, Puglia, Florence and Parma. Sophie hosted two, I hosted two, and our wonderful guest hosts led the rest.
The biggest change in our schedule is the number of tours we now host in March. We used to begin our season in April, when temperatures were a bit warmer and there was less possibility of rain. But two things have changed over the last few years.
First of all, with global warming, March in Italy is definitely the new April. Yes, there can be rain, but it never gets that cold. And if I had to choose between the slightly cooler temperatures of March and what has now become the scorching heat of June for hosting a food tour, I choose March every single time. Because who feels like sitting down to a big lunch when it’s 90 degrees outside? But on a chilly spring day? Give me another serving of pasta, please.
Secondly, even though I’m firmly on Team March, no one else seems to have gotten the memo. This past week, when I was hosting a tour in eastern Sicily, we had the towns of Noto, Ragusa, and Ortigia almost completely to ourselves. Sophie reports the same from Lecce, Monopoli, and Matera. And in Florence, we were actually able to enjoy walking over the Ponte Vecchio instead of avoiding it. If you’ve ever visited any of these towns during high season, you know what a luxury it is to wander without being swept up in huge groups fresh off a cruise ship. It was heaven.
2026 is nearly sold out—with most of our tours already full and operating on a waitlist. However, there are still a very limited number of spots available on two exceptional experiences: our Puglia tour with guest host Erin O’Brien and our Parma tour with guest host Shereen Pavlides.
Our guest-hosted tours are something truly special. We’ve carefully partnered with some of our favorite friends and collaborators—talented hosts who bring their own deep knowledge, personality, and passion for cooking to each journey. At the same time, every detail is thoughtfully curated by Via Rosa and supported by our trusted network of local experts, ensuring the same seamless, high-quality experience our guests expect.
If you’ve been considering joining us, this is one of the last opportunities to travel with us in 2026—and these final spots won’t last long.
The Culture of Food in Puglia with Erin O’Brien: September 13-19, 2026
The Culture of Food in Parma with Shereen Palvides: October 18-24, 2026
Join us in 2027 - We’ve begun rolling out our schedule for 2027! As always, I announce new tours hosted by Sophie and me through the paid version of this newsletter—and they tend to fill up quickly. We’ve already added tours to Florence, Sicily, and Puglia, and they are already waitlist-only. But don’t worry: we’ll be adding more tours over the next two months, so make sure you’re signed up if you’d like to join us!
WHAT I’M READING
Currently reading Lake Effect by Cynthia D’Aprix Sweeney. Since the main character seems to have been born at almost exactly the same time as I was, I’m loving the dip back in time. And she gets all the details right, including finding a hidden copy of The Joy of Sex in her mother’s closet.
There were two big thefts in Italy recently: A truck load of Kit Kats and several Impressionist Paintings. Are the two related? Who can really say?
Who doesn’t need more cookies in their life? Domenica Marchetti’s newest book, Italian Cookies comes out April 14 (but you can pre-order it now) and contains 100 perfectly delicious recipes to indulge your biscotti craving.
Speaking of biscotti (because why not?) Via Rosa guest host Zoe Francois shares her drop dead gorgeous recipe for rainbow cookies. They might be a bit too ambitious for me (a non-baker) but I’m willing to taste test for anyone who decides to dive in.
Bookmark this article on favorite small museums in Florence. It features all my favorite (and quirkiest) under-rated museums.
I’m just back from Sicily and so craving those tastes. Thanks to Via Rosa guest host Meryl Feinstein I can with this list of Sicilian-inspired recipes.
I thought I was the only one who made hotel room salads. Turns out guest host Jenny Rosentrach not only does it too, but she’s perfected the process.
In my previous career (writing for Architectural Digest) I got the chance to peek in to people’s homes for a living. These days I am getting my fix via this newsletter which I am 100% addicted to. I love the focus on the history behind the properties, especially when there is an overlap with a TV show we are all watching.
WHERE I’VE BEEN
Rome at this time of year, the week leading up to Easter, is as crowded as ever. But this past Sunday, I was determined that Domenico and I would take a walk and find small pockets of the city where we could breathe without fighting through streams of visitors. I also decided that even though there were things to see along the way (churches, small museums, etc) we would stay outside. It was simply too beautiful to waste a single second indoors. But just in case you are curious, I’ve included one nearby indoor site for each outdoor one.
Rome Sunday Walk: Escaping the Crowds
Here’s the itinerary (you can find the Google Map here):
Via delle Sette Sale – Whenever I take a walk in my neighborhood, I always try to include this short stretch of completely empty road tucked in behind the Colosseum. There’s nothing on it—and that’s the joy of it. I can pretend I’m in the countryside, especially toward the end where it opens up near the park. (Nearby site: San Pietro in Vincoli with Micheangelo’s Moses)
Parco del Colle Oppio – This small park is often overlooked, even though it sits literally in the shadow of one of the most important monuments in the world. Yes, it has views of the Colosseum, but it also offers lovely shaded paths, fountains, and grassy areas perfect for picnics. There’s even a rose arbor that should be blooming soon. But I especially love stopping here for a coffee at the old-fashioned kiosk, which somehow still manages to survive. (Nearby Site: The Colosseum. Obviously.)
Villa Celimontana – I’ve been coming to this park since I was 12, and it remains a favorite—especially for families. I’ve lost count of how many outdoor birthday parties I attended here with the girls. It’s not large, but it feels more expansive than it is. Meandering paths, bits of statuary, and towering umbrella pines add to its charm. This week, they inaugurated a newly restored section of the park—the Clivo di Villa Celimontana—which features a beautiful planting of lemon trees and two niche fountains. (FYI: There’s also a large playground with a paved path that’s great for roller skating.) (Nearby site: Basilica di Santo Stefano Rotondo)
Clivo di Scauro – If you leave Villa Celimontana through the back entrance, you’ll arrive at one of my favorite streets in Rome. The Clivo di Scauro dates back to the 1st century AD, but it’s the medieval arches spanning the lane that make it so special. (Nearby site: Case Romane del Celio)
Parco Archeologico del Celio – About halfway down this street, you’ll come to a nondescript gate that leads into one of the most unique and beautiful outdoor museums in Rome. The park was inaugurated in 2024 and displays a fascinating collection of archaeological finds. It also includes the Casina del Salvi, which has a bar, restaurant, and study area.
WHAT I’M EATING
You would think that at this point in my life I would have the basics covered, especially since I’ve hosted the exact same tour in eastern Sicily at least 20 times, and attended the same cooking class just as often. But truly, each and every time I learn something new.
This past week, it was two classics: meatballs and tomato sauce. I know, I know - been there, done that. But the way my friend Alessia prepared these two dishes, and then brought them together, completely blew my mind.
First, the tomato sauce. It involves absolutely no sautéing of any ingredients. To bring it to the table, all it takes is a quick 20 minutes over high heat.
And then the meatballs. I am the self-professed queen of meatballs. Minchilli meatballs (which I learned from Nonna) were in my first cookbook and have been shared widely. But these little Sicilian meatballs were something completely different.
Specifically:
Alessia used white wine - not milk - to add moisture. It never occurred to me!
She made them the size of walnuts because “that way they fit perfectly on a fork and into your mouth in one bite.” Seems obvious, but who knew?
And finally—the biggest revelation to me—she gently slid the raw meatballs into the hot tomato sauce and let the heat cook them through. No browning at all. After coming to room temperature, they are reheated and served. “This way they are even better,” she said—and she’s right.
While you can certainly serve the meatballs and tomato sauce over pasta, we had them on their own, and they were perfect.
Alessia’s advice: always make more than you think you need, because everyone fights over the leftovers the next day, when, of course, they’re even better.
AND FINALLY….
The kitchen renovation in Umbria continues. I’m hoping it will be finished by mid-May, though it may end up being closer to the end of the month. At the moment, we are waiting on tiles arriving from Morocco, and the kitchen cabinetry is taking time since everything is being made by hand.
In the meantime, the walls have been painted and we have sanded down the terracotta floors, so they are looking beautifully clean again. Now I have moved on to the next phase of decisions, which feels more like interior design than construction.
To banquette or not to banquette, that is the question. I am about 90 percent convinced to go for an upholstered banquette along the walls by our kitchen table. It would not only make the space extra cozy, but also provide more comfortable seating in the room where, let’s be honest, everyone naturally gathers.
I even used AI to help me visualize whether I would like it or not. I would love to hear what you think:
Has anyone else played around with AI when decorating? I’m semi-obsessed. Especially since for some reason Kitty seems to appear randomly.
x, Elizabeth
No on the banquette. too hard to get in & out of.
I love a banquette but I do understand the comments saying they can be difficult for people with mobility issues. Maybe you can build one just for the wall where the window is and use chairs elsewhere or do a banquette type sofa (custom made) for that wall. It will give you more flexibility.