News from Elizabeth: October 2025
Mini Torino Guide, Pasta Recipe and fun links
In Italy, this is the season of the grand rientro—the return. By mid-September, schools reopen, city streets fill again, and the long pause of summer gives way to routine. I’ve always followed that rhythm myself, heading back from our country home in Umbria to Rome, back to “real” life.
This year, though, I stayed in Umbria for the month, something I hadn’t done since 2020. When I was younger, I never imagined I could spend extended stretches in the countryside, especially as the days grew shorter. But more and more, I find myself preferring the slower pace. Perhaps it’s the crush of tourism that has overtaken central Rome, or perhaps I’ve simply changed. Most likely, it’s a bit of both.
My rientro begins today, with a return to Rome before setting off to lead tours in Sicily and Tuscany. After a September of quiet rhythms and country light, it feels like stepping back into a faster current—one I’m ready for, though I’ll carry a little of Umbria’s stillness with me. Do you find September feels like a fresh start, or just the end of summer? Or a bit of both?
WHAT’S NEW
We had such a great week up in Piemonte working on the new tour (coming in 2027!). I still can’t believe how many places we managed to see and how many people we met along the way. I know Torino pretty well, but the Langhe was completely new to me. And honestly? I was blown away. I expected the food and wine to be excellent (of course), but what really surprised me was the landscape. Those rolling hills covered in vineyards should have reminded me of Tuscany or Umbria, yet there was something different about them—a kind of elegance and quiet poetry that felt all its own.
Meanwhile, Sophie just wrapped up our very first Sardinia tour, and it was a huge success! She admitted she was a little nervous at the start—leading a brand-new trip is a whole different experience than guiding one you’ve hosted twenty times. But that’s part of the thrill. It keeps things fresh for us too, pushing us to learn a place inside out before we can even think about introducing it to guests. This one was extra special because it’s the first tour Sophie designed entirely on her own. We already have two Sardinia departures planned for 2026: the spring one is sold out, but I’ll be announcing a fall date in the next few weeks. These tend to fill quickly, so if you’re interested, make sure you’re signed up for the paid version of this newsletter—you’ll be the first to hear.
Our fall schedule is in full swing. Evan Kleiman just hosted a tour in Parma, and Corre Larkin led a group through Sicily. Sophie is in Puglia this week, and I’ll be heading to Palermo on Sunday before meeting Rolando in Florence for our tour the following week. In the weeks ahead, Jenny Rosenstrach will be hosting her second tour for Via Rosa in Puglia and Justine Doiron hosts her first tour in Sicily.
And one more bit of news: we’ll be announcing tours for fall 2026 very soon, including Florence, Puglia, Sicily, Sardinia, Umbria, and Parma. Some will be led by Sophie and me, and others by our wonderful guest hosts. You can always check our full schedule below: we’re updating it constantly.
WHERE I’VE BEEN
During our trip to research the new Piemonte tour, we spent three nights in Torino. It’s one of my favorite cities in Italy, and I’ll never understand why more people don’t go there. Then again, I shouldn’t complain—because we practically had the city to ourselves. No crowds of tourists, no lines, and always a table waiting at whatever café caught our eye. Even better, we could walk into restaurants without having to book weeks in advance (a rarity in Italy these days!). And I can happily announce that I managed to eat plin (the meat-stuffed pasta in the above photo) every single day.
I thought I’d share a few of my favorite spots in Torino, in case you find yourself there one day before you can join us for a tour.
MINI TORINO RESTAURANT GUIDE
Scannabue
Scannabue is a cozy, Parisian-style bistrot in Turin known for its high-quality ingredients and traditional Piemontese cooking at fair prices. The menu changes often, but expect excellent pastas like plin al sugo d’arrosto or gnocchi with Castelmagno cheese, along with rich meat stews. Desserts are a highlight too—don’t miss the panna cotta, crème caramel, or classic bonet.
Madame Piola
A new discovery, recommended by friends and clearly loved by locals. The menu is strictly traditional, built around locally grown ingredients and changing daily. They almost always serve bollito—which Sophie ordered and loved. It arrived in its own little tureen, swimming in rich broth, and felt like a dish straight from someone’s home kitchen.
Ristorante Solferino
The biggest surprise of the trip. I had never been before, and while the interiors lean a bit formal (even stiff), the food more than made up for it. In fact, we all agreed it might have been the best meal of the week. My plin—tiny agnolotti—came floating in butter and sage, and the vitello tonnato was excellent. For starters, they offer a wonderful selection of small plates, from salame with butter to marinated anchovies.
Antiche Sere
This no-frills, family-run spot has been serving straightforward Torinese food for over 80 years, with plain wooden tables, whitewashed walls, and a handwritten menu that changes daily. Start with the house specialty—a rustic pork-and-potato “salami” spread on crusty bread—before moving on to silky roasted peppers with anchovies, Swiss chard frittata, or the perfectly executed agnolotti con sugo d’arrosto. Desserts like budino di torrone and crème caramel are refreshingly light, and the warm, gracious service makes everyone feel like family.
Porta di Savona
Porto di Savona, founded in 1863, is one of Turin’s oldest restaurants and sits right on Piazza Vittorio with views stretching across the square to the river and foothills. The menu is all about classic Piedmontese cooking—think agnolotti al sugo d’arrosto, tagliatelle al Castelmagno, brasato, fritto misto, and hearty dishes like Finanziera. Warm interiors and a lively terrace make it a favorite spot to soak up tradition in the heart of the city.
WHAT I’M READING
I’m a big podcast listener and almost always have something playing during my daily walk. Maybe that’s why it’s taken me so long to switch over to audiobooks. But I finally downloaded Audible, and my first listen is a recommendation from my sister: The Measure. It’s a sci-fi/dystopian novel that definitely feels shaped by post-Covid themes and current events. The premise is intriguing, and the story is engaging enough to keep me company on a walk (though I wouldn’t call it great literature).
Speaking of great literature, I just finished The Age of Innocence. While waiting for the next season of The Gilded Age to premiere, I realized I had somehow never read it. Since my dissertation was on the Boboli Gardens, I was already a big fan of Edith Wharton through her book Italian Villas and Their Gardens—but I can’t believe it took me this long to read her most famous novel.
I just started The Loneliness of Sonia and Sunny, because I always tell myself I’ll at least try to make it through some of the Booker Prize shortlist. So far, I’m enjoying it—but at 700 pages, we’ll see how long my patience for this densely (albeit beautifully) written tome lasts.
Can’t wait to see the Fra Angelico show in Florence
Pasta can solve many of lives greatest problems but did you know it could also hold your credit cards? Or hold up your dress?
This is a very specific kind of list that appeals to me: Where to get a great burger & martini in NYC.
As the proud owner of way too many Buon Ricordo plates I loved this post.
Via Rosa guest host Meryl (Pasta Social Club) has curated the perfect pasta tools starter kit.
Only 3 days in Rome? Here’s a good way to spend it. And by spend it I mean go shopping.
Corre Larkin took home this salad recipe from her recent trip to Sicily hosting a tour for Via Rosa.
WHAT I’M EATING
The other night I got home late and didn’t even think about dinner until 8:00. The first thing I did was make myself a martini. The second was to turn to my default dinner plan: Pasta Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino. It’s deceptively simple, but there are a few tricks to getting it right.
I shared it on Instagram, and the comments cracked me up—everyone wanted to tell me about their extra ingredients: anchovies, cheese, tomatoes, eggplant… you name it. Not that any of those are wrong, but they sure aren’t Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino. The beauty of this dish is its simplicity.
Also? It pairs perfectly with a Dirty Vodka Pickle Martini, in case you were wondering.
AND FINALLY
It as so much fun to talk about the connections between taste and place and culture, and how that is reflected in Via Rosa tours, with Zoe Francois in this month’s Italy issue of Cherry Bombe magazine.
In case you missed them, here are posts that went out to Premium Subscribers last month:
Hope you have a good rientro!
x,Elizabeth
A full list of our tours can be found by clicking the button below. I realize that they are all waitlisted! But since people sign up so far in advance, we usually have one or two spots open up 4 months before the start of any tour. So it’s worth adding your name to the list!
1 september is probably one of the best months to visit Italy.
2 we absolutely prefer the countryside over the city - though you need to have some good ones nearby.
3 is it just me or are you missing out in the Emilia Romagna? Bologna? Modena? The incredible Apennine mountains - I should know, we live there.
Lovely newsletter though
Italian stories.substack.com
A pet peeve of mine is people who add/omit ingredients to recipes and then say how great the recipe is! 😏