News from Elizabeth: September 2025
Perugia guide, basil recipes, and fun links
I hope your summer was a good one. Mine felt unusually long, which is always the best kind of summer. Even though this past month was oddly cool in Umbria (less pool time than usual), it meant I was able to walk much more, which I love.
One thing we didn’t do this summer was go to the beach. In fact, this is the second summer in a row with zero seaside time. Practically a crime in Italy, where everyone spends at least a few days by the water between June 1 and August 30. When Sophie and Emma were little, our summers always included a seaside escape. Some years, it was a week or two at a big resort in Puglia; later, when they were older, we headed to islands in Greece.
I think my lack of planning for beach time has to do with the fact that I spend the whole year organizing trips for others. When it comes to planning my own, I sometimes get lazy. To fix this, I’m already booking next summer’s seaside vacation. I’m thinking… Greece. As summer winds down, are you already making plans for next year too, or is it just me? Let me know in the comments where your next big trip is.
WHAT’S NEW
It really feels like “back to school” season, but in the best way. Sophie, Emma, and I are kicking off our first week back at work with research in Piemonte.
For those who don’t know: Piemonte sits in Italy’s northwest corner, bordering France and Switzerland, nestled at the foot of the Alps. You may know it for Barolo wine or its famous white truffle festival. We’ll be spending the week meeting truffle hunters, hazelnut farmers, grappa makers, and wine producers, all while testing restaurants and hotels (a bit like The Princess and the Pea, but for your comfort).
Planning a new tour takes us about a year and a half, so this Piemonte itinerary should be ready in 2027. As for who will host it, Sophie and I are currently fighting over the privilege because we’re both that excited.
Meanwhile, I’ve been fine-tuning details for our new Umbria tour, which I mentioned in the last newsletter. The research has been heavy (see the video below), but it’s worth it.
I’ll be announcing the new itinerary in the next two weeks. Make sure you’re signed up for the paid version of this newsletter if you’d like early access.
We’ll also be releasing our Fall 2026 schedule soon. Alongside tours hosted by Sophie and me, we’ll be joined by wonderful guest hosts, including:
Justine Doiron
Shereen Pavlides
Corre Larkin
Rolando Beramendi
Erin O’Brien
✨ Open spots: Due to last-minute cancellations, we currently have 1 space left on our Umbria tour, November 16-22, 2025.
Looking further ahead, we’ve also added a Western Sicily tour with Evan Kleiman in May 2026, and there are a few spots left.
Coming to Rome? Remember that Sophie leads day tours exploring her favorite markets and places in her favorite neighborhoods.
WHERE I’VE BEEN: PERUGIA
It’s been a joy to spend six weeks in a row in Umbria. Besides just enjoying being home, it’s also given me a chance to have fun running around Umbria, visiting places I haven’t had time to in a while. Case in point: Perugia. Perugia is the largest city in Umbria and its capital. And every single time I go there I think, ‘why don’t I go more often?’ The historic center is gorgeous, easy to reach, and completely manageable on foot. Since it’s more of a city than a town, there are lots of interesting museums and shops. And of course, great places to eat. In case you find yourself in Perugia, here are some of my go-to places to eat. All are right in the center, and each one is a bit different.
MINI GUIDE: WHERE TO EAT IN PERUGIA
Da Cesarino
One of the oldest restaurants in town, located right on the main piazza facing the Duomo and the fountain. Not fancy, not inventive, but one of my favorites. A recent meal included perfectly made crostini, an excellent Umbrian amatriciana (with sausage instead of guanciale), and stracchino-stuffed gnocchi in pesto. The grumpy old-school waiter eventually warmed up, even pulling us into the kitchen to see the open grill. Pro tip: Order the fried potatoes (basically homemade potato chips), which are a house specialty and extraordinary. Piazza IV Novembre, 4, Perugia
A cozy restaurant tucked into a small alleyway. Spread over two levels, the ground floor also houses a little shop selling Slow Food products used in the dishes. The menu changes seasonally and balances tradition with a modern twist. Everything, from the olive oil to the wine, is sourced locally. Via dei Priori 39, Perugia
Just off the main square, this charming restaurant has a terrace overlooking one of the city’s most beautiful archways. Locals prefer the vaulted dining rooms inside. I especially loved their Umbrian pesto made with marjoram, thyme, savory, and walnuts. Via Ritorta 6, Perugia
A lively enoteca, open evenings only. The counter is always lined with open bottles of Umbrian wine, making it ideal for tastings. Their dinner menu goes beyond the usual Umbrian fare. I recently enjoyed strangozzi tossed with radicchio, pancetta, and parmigiano, followed by pork filet in a potato crust with sautéed cabbage. Dessert was a standout: dark chocolate cake with candied orange peel. Via della Viola 25, Perugia
Granieri
Hungry but don’t quite feel like a big meal? Then this is your chance to stop by one of the best porchetta stands in Umbria, located on one of the main streets. It almost always has a line, and for good reason. Their crusty rolls filled with wood-fired porchetta are perfection. There are “gourmet” versions with extras, but I always stick to the classic. Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 21, Perugia
This historic café (founded in 1876) was recently bought by new owners, but it remains one of the most beautiful places for coffee in town. I love standing at the bar beneath the frescoes, though their terrace on Corso Vannucci is also lovely. Don’t miss their specialty: a snake-shaped almond cake. Corso Pietro Vanucci 32, Perugia
WHAT I’M READING
A great guide to where to get a drink in Florence.
I swear by carry-on only (though I’ve never managed “personal item only”).
5 favorite places for art in Rome, a quirky but useful list that avoids the crowds.
Guest host Zoë François’s mini guides from her Italy trip with Via Rosa: Puglia & Matera and Rome.
Wondering if there’s a “me” in Paris? Follow Lindsey Tramuta, especially her excellent post on cruising the Seine.
Another Rome perspective: Christine Muhlke’s take on the Eternal City. Always love seeing it through different eyes.
A bit off my Italian beat, but for those in New York: the best farmers’ markets in the Hudson Valley.
WHAT I’M EATING
The basil in our garden (and at the farmers’ market) has been thriving in this cooler, damp weather. I’ve been using it in just about everything. Here are two recipes, attached as PDFs, for anyone with a late-summer basil bounty:
Pasta with Pesto (Video)
Pasta with Zucchini & Deconstructed Pesto (Video)
AND FINALLY…
In case you missed them, here are some recent posts from Via Rosa:
Updated Strawberry and Ricotta Cake (See the video for a peach version)
Tomato, Pancetta, and Mascarpone Pasta (and here’s the video)
Have a great September, whatever your plans are!
x,Elizabeth
Southern Spain coming up, with a gobe-trotting Irish cousin. We are eyeing the Via Rosa tour schedules with out daughter-in-law who introduced you to me 🤞🏻❤️
I love Umbria! Here's a very offbeat recommendation for next time you are in Perugia: Edicola518 sells printed independent magazines from all over the world. (they also have the "Hidden Umbria" travel guide 😉)