November 2021 News from Elizabeth
Hello from home! As my fall tours are winding down (we have one last tour in Parma next week) I’m very happy to be back to spending time in our home. There is nothing like traveling non-stop to make you appreciate the joys of your own couch. The other thing that has happened is that I’m excited to get back into the kitchen again. Did you kind of burn out with cooking over the course of the last year and a half? Me too. But after dining out in restaurants almost non-stop over the last 8 weeks I have once again gotten excited about shopping, cooking and eating at home.
It was actually something I was worried about. Cooking is such a big part of my life that I was sort of scared when I found I just couldn’t deal with grocery shopping, meal planning or even turning on the burner. I found myself serving dinners made of bits of cheese and some thawed out bread from the freezer. That is SO not me! I kept hearing stories of people who had lost their sense of smell or taste due to Covid. That to me seemed the ultimate horror. But when I lost my desire to cook? It was really kind of depressing.
Did something like that happen to you too? Kitchen burn out?
Anyway, I’m happy to report that I am back in my kitchen and fully recovered. I’m having a full on dinner party this weekend and I’m even thinking about doing a few new videos on Instagram which I haven’t done since….July? I’m so glad the force is with me again.
WHAT’S NEW
As I mentioned above Sophie and I just finished 6 weeks of almost back-to-back tours. We usually don’t plan this many tours in a row, but strange times, right? What with making up for last year and the bottomless desire of everyone to get back to Italy, we decided to fit in as many tours as possible these past two months. And it was fantastic!! I can’t tell you how great it was to be back traveling with our guests. Also, because I think it takes more effort to travel these days, there was just so much good cheer once people got here, it was definitely contagious. We had so much fun! Actually, a few evenings we were having so much fun that we were told by fellow diners in restaurants to keep it down. I guess fun is loud?
This is the part of the newsletter where I tell you about our upcoming tours. Unfortunately, at the moment, all of our tours are almost completely sold out for 2022. We have only 2 spots left (July in Puglia and November in Umbria.) But never fear….we are adding 3 additional weeks! I’ll be announcing the tours next week in the Premium Newsletter. Then, a week later, I’ll be adding them to the website.
In the meantime, 2023 is filling up too, but we still have a few openings for Puglia and Umbria. I’ll be adding more weeks for Sicily and Puglia too, which will be announced first in the Premium Newsletter.
And if you’re coming to Rome, you can get in touch directly with Sophie to find out about her market tours. These are small private tours and are great if you are either on your own, but also if you are traveling with your family. Since they are private, if you have kids traveling with you, Sophie is happy to tailor the tour so everyone is happy.
WHERE I’VE BEEN
We had three tours to Puglia this fall! I am almost starting to think of Lecce and Monopoli as my second home. We finally made up a list of some of our favorite places to eat in Lecce (Monopoli coming soon!). We also spent a glorious week in Sicily, based in Ortigia, and our list of favorite places to eat there is here. And if you happen to be in Todi? You can find some of our favorites here, and a full list will be coming next week.
Sophie and I did a LOT of traveling. Up and down Italy, on planes, trains and cars. And I just wanted to let you know that everything is super safe here. As Italy nears 80% vaccinated rate and continues mandatory mask mandates inside, things feel like they are getting back to normal.
There are still lots of regulations in place for travel. At the moment travelers from the USA and Canada must be vaccinated with one of the European approved vaccines (or show proof of recovery) , as well as have an antigen test within 72 hours of your arrival. You must also fill out an EU Passenger Locator Form.
But once you get to Italy, it’s smooth sailing. I have been getting a LOT of questions online about what it’s been like here over the last few months. All restaurants continue to have lots of tables outside, where ever it’s possible. Although winter is coming, much of Italy - from Rome south - has sunny days where lunch outside is still possible throughout the colder months. And when dining inside, customers must show proof of vaccination or negative test to get in. In my experience most restaurants are pretty good about checking documents. In fact, at one restaurant in Puglia the police actually came in to check on everyone’s documents, so you know that’s being enforced.
And EVERYONE wears a mask inside. Not just because it’s the law, but because it just makes sense. It makes everyone feel safe. It’s just not an issue here. In fact, the only people over the last 2 months that I saw having to be reminded to put on their masks in places like airports or trains were Americans.
I know things are complicated and do change. But I do my best to keep up. If you have any specific travel questions I can will do my best to answer them in the comments below.
WHAT I’M READING
Like everyone else I’m in the middle of Elizabeth Strout’s newest book Oh, William! It’s in that somewhat odd but compelling style of one of her previous book My Name is Lucy Barton, and follows the same character. Kind of slow to start, but it’s crept up on me and I’m loving it (even though it’s a bit dark).
LOVED LOVED LOVED Madeline Miller’s Circe.
Here is a very well written article on travel to Italy. There may be a pay wall. But if you are Italy bound or live here, you may want to subscribe to The Local Italy. It’s extremely well written and full of useful information.
Have you ever dreamed of having a Caravaggio fresco in your home? Here’s your chance.
You know I love an old fashioned pastry shop. Here is a great list.
The charm of traveling alone, in groups
I know this doesn’t count as reading, but is anyone else as obsessed with Spelling Bee as I am?
WHAT I’M EATING
I LOVE fall produce!! I can’t get enough of persimmons, grapes and pomegranates at the moment. And of course very happy to see all the crunchy vegetables like broccoli, cabbage and fennel to make winter salads. I’m also a HUGE fan of pumpkin and squash. Here are a few recipes that are on current rotation:
Butternut Squash with Sage Pesto
Butternut Squash and Farro Soup
(If you’re signed up for the Premium version of the newsletter this month’s Meal Plan will be for an entire Italy-inspired Thanksgiving menu. )
AND FINALLY….
I had a great time chatting with CBS Sunday Morning about orecchiette in Bari last week. If all goes well, you’ll be able to see the episode on Sunday morning, November 21. I’m not sure what time it airs, but it will show up on their web site here.
That’s all for this month. I hope you have a great weekend. I’m off to have a cocktail. Cheers!
x,Elizabeth
Totally obsessed with Spelling Bee. Cannot go to sleep if I have not maxed out the number of words I am capable of finding!! Help!
Spelling Bee, lol. Yes. Have only failed to make the highest level once.