December 2021 News from Elizabeth

Hello from a very rainy day in Rome. I’m not complaining though. I actually love the rain, especially when I don’t have a real reason to go out. Sure, I miss taking a walk (I might put on my new rain hat and go out anyway) but I love any excuse to get cozy inside. At the moment I’m cuddled up in my office with a few candles lit, a mug of ginger tea and kitty passed out under my computer screen. Heaven.

But seriously, December usually isn’t this rainy and I know the sun will come out by tomorrow. It’s actually my favorite time of year. When people ask me when is the best time to visit Rome, I always tell them December. Everything is so sparkly. The big tree is going up in Piazza Venezia as I write, and holiday lights are already twinkling everywhere.

I’m super excited for the holidays this year since my sister and her family are coming to visit and also my daughter Emma. After last year spent just on our own, I can’t wait to have a full house.

Do you have plans for the holidays? Have you put up your tree yet? I’ve got both the tree and the Menorah going, so I’m good to go!

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WHAT’S NEW

Our tours are finished for the season and we don’t have another one until March. Our last week was in Parma, with Vicky Bennison of Pasta Grannies. It was a fantastic group and we had a great time together eating our weight in parmigiano, prosciutto, culatello and pasta. It was the first time that I organized this tour, but it won’t be the last. I’m already busy planning a similar week for next year.

At the moment all of our tours are completely sold out for 2022 (sorry!) I just added 3 extra tours for next year: 2 in Umbria and one in Puglia. For now, they are available only for Premium subscribers (they get first dibs). But don’t worry, I’ll be sharing them on my website for everyone next week.

Sophie and I are very busy working on a brand new Puglia tour that will be based in Bari. This means that we’ll be able to explore northern Puglia as well as parts of Basilicata, including Matera. It also means that you’ll get to know Bari very well, which as you know is a city that is close to our hearts. Stay tuned…..

In the meantime there are still a couple of spots left for our Umbria tours in May and November 2023. Send me an email if you’d like to hear more about them. Again, more tours coming soon….

FYI: I first share the new tours with Premium Subscribers. Then the tours are shared about a week later on the website.

If you are coming to Rome remember that Sophie leads market tours through Campo dei Fiori and Trastevere. You can read more about that here.

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WHERE I’VE BEEN

After our last tour in Parma I have become even more in love with that city. I’ve been to Parma numerous times, for work and play. But each time I go I find myself even more enamored. I spent a week there with our group, and even though the weather was not the best (drizzly, cold for the most part) that didn’t matter at all. In fact, the foggy mornings made it even more romantic. And I have to admit that the cold weather is definitely conducive to eating the rich food that the region is known for.

If you do go to Parma here are a few tips:

• My favorite hotel is right in the center of town: Palazzo della Rosa Prati. It’s very old fashioned, and is more like mini-apartments than a regular hotel. Each room has a small kitchenette, which I love. Also some rooms have views of the Duomo and Babtistry

• Getting to Parma can be incredibly easy from Rome. I always take the super fast Frecciarossa train to the Reggio Emlia AV stop. It’s located about a 25 minute taxi ride away from Parma. This means you avoid having to change trains in Bologna, which can be a bit of a pain.

• If you get to Parma and you aren’t able to come on a tour with me, then I highly recommend Explore Emilia for their fantastic food tours. (they also have wonderful historic tours as well).

Speaking of easy to get to places: Florence. I took a trip up to Florence for lunch last week, to see my friend Rolando. Since the train takes less than 1 1/2 hours, I don’t know why I don’t do this more often?

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WHAT I’M READING

Currently in the middle of The Jane Austen Society by Natalie Jenner. Set in a small village in England just after WWII it’s the perfect escapist treat. Also, of course, it’s making want to go back and re-read (or just read for the first time) Jane Austen.

If you want to keep up on what’s going on in Italy these days I can’t recommend The Local Italy enough. It’s kind of taken the place of English language newspapers I used to read back in the days of newspapers (The Daily American, and the Herald). It’s been especially helpful in tracking the ever changing rules regarding covid and travel. It costs €35 a year and is worth it.

Loved this article about Marcella Hazan from the New Yorker.

Did you know that there is a community of Albanian descent in southern Italy that goes back centuries? They have their own very distinct cuisine. This article (in Italian) is a deep dive.

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WHAT I’M WATCHING

If you haven’t watched it yet, Maid, on Netflix, is both sad and up lifting. The acting is superb.

I can’t WAIT for The Gilded Age.

Like almost everyone else we are devouring Succession. I’m not sure which is more upsetting, that or The Morning Show.

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WHAT I’M EATING

I’m starting to think about holiday menus. My sister and her family will be here for Christmas AND New Years, with my birthday in the middle. That’s a lot of festive meals to think about.

We’ll definitely be doing the fish thing on the 24th.

Christmas day will most likely be tortellini in brodo to start.

New Years? I’m open to suggestions. I tend towards fishy things like salmon and caviar. And bubbly, always bubbly.

If you’re looking for inspiration, here are few menus that I pulled together a few years ago

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WHAT I’M BUYING

Are you looking for some gift ideas? Here are a few:

Magnifico has some great Panettone , at very reasonable prices. Everyone love panettone!

The Italy Edit just published a beautiful guide to Italian gifts.

Curious Appetite has a few very delicious Italian Food boxes for the holidays.

Don’t forget Sophie’s The Sweetness of Doing Nothing for anyone who loves Italy.

All of my books are available here and of course IMHO make the perfect gift. ;)

Emiko Davies has a very lovely gift box available here. And subscribers to her wonderful newsletter get a discount.

Speaking of newsletters, this one would make a nice gift!

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WHAT I’M DRINKING

It’s holiday season and while I don’t totally give up on martinis, I do sometimes do tend towards something more festive at cocktail hour. I will definitely be stocking up on some of my favorite vermouths (it just seems so festive!) but I’ll also be making this Maple Bourbon Punch. Just be warned: it’s completely additive.

Bourbon Maple Milk Punch

Serves 2

• 4 oz Bourbon (I like Maker’s Mark for this)

• 1/2 tsp vanilla extract

• 1 oz maple syrup

• 6 oz whole milk

• 1 egg white

• nutmeg

Put all of the ingredients, except nutmeg and ice, in a cocktail shaker. Shake well, till mixed and fluffy. Add ice, give it another few good shake to chill. Strain into small rocks glass, and grate a bit of nutmeg over the top.

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AND FINALLY

I’ve got my tree up and the Christmas music in on repeat. Here is my playlist from Spotify in case you are curious.

In case you missed it, Sophie and I were on CBS Sunday morning last week, talking about our favorite pasta in Bari: Orecchiette.

Here’s wishing you a very Happy Hanukah right now, and a Merry Christmas later on. But I’m sure I’ll be in touch before then!

x,Elizabeth