December 2024: News from Elizabeth
Rome at Christmas, Cocktail Recipe and Gift Guide
I usually wait until at least December 8 to put up our tree. That date is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and is the official start of the holiday season in Italy. But this year I couldn’t wait. And evidently the rest of Rome felt that way too. There are tons of holiday lights up everywhere! You never know from year to year if Romans are going to get their act together. But I guess everyone feels like me: we just need a bit more sparkle at the end of 2024. I did the math and I realized that if I put up my tree on December 1 that means I can have sparkles for at least the next five weeks, until January 7, which is the other holiday (Epiphany) that marks the end of holiday season here.
I also did some more math and realized that we’ll be spending a good part of this time up in Umbria so this year it’s TWO trees! Because why the hell not. More sparkle, more better.
I am also on a quest to get as much panettone and pandoro in and have decided that making reels about it justifies having probably way too much cake in the house. Maybe I need to do some chocolate videos to?
Have you started decorating yet?
WHAT’S NEW
Our biggest news this past month is the rebranding and new website for our tour company Via Rosa. The launch has gone very smoothly and we have this incredible company to thank for that. We’ve also had such nice feedback from all of you. The biggest change from our old system (which involved emails, pdfs and multiple buttons to be pushed ) is that now all of our brochures live online on this page. You can see which tours are still available and which are sold out or have wait lists at a glance. Much easier!
Although many of our tours sell out fast, we often have spots open up. We still have a room on a few of the following tours in Spring 2025:
Western Sicily with Sophie March 23-29, 2025 - Our favorite season in this part of Sicily. We are based in Palermo, but spend several days exploring the countryside which is bursting with wild flowers. It looks like I made this video below with AI, but it really does look this way in March. Also: take a look at that bright blue sky.
Eastern Sicily with Elizabeth May 4-10, 2025 - This is the tour where I get to share one of my favorite towns in Italy (Ortigia) with you. From our base in this seaside baroque jewel of a town we’ll explore the Eastern side of Sicily: almond farms, a volcano, granitas, fresh fish and more. There is also the slight twist on the usual tour I lead there, since we are staying in the elegant and super luxurious Algila hotel, right on the sea.
Puglia with Sophie May 25-31, 2025 - This is the perfect time of the year to explore Puglia if you also want to work in some beach time. Many of our guests, after joining Sophie for the week exploring the culture of food in Salento and central Puglia, go on to plan a beachy vacation in Sicily, Puglia or the islands. We are happy to introduce you to our travel colleagues who can help you plan a trip around your week with us.
You can find the rest of our current schedule here. We are constantly updating it and adding more tours. More fall dates are coming soon and if you are subscribed to the Premium version of this newsletter you’ll be the first to know.
WHERE I’M GOING: ROME IN DECEMBER
It’s the beginning of my ‘off’ season (my next tour is in March) and while I do have some small trips planned (Torino, Tuscany and maybe Genoa), what I mostly enjoy is just staying home. Rome in December is lovely. That photo above is from last December. The light this month is extraordinary - especially the sunsets. Granted, this year, with half the city under scaffolding for the upcoming jubilee year, appreciating the beauty presents challenges. But the fountains and buildings are slowly being revealed and I’ve got my fingers crossed that in the next few weeks much of the construction will be over.
In the meantime here are some of the things I have planned for this month of what I’m calling Staycation: Rome Christmas Edition.
Take an after dinner walk- This is not only the best time to avoid any crowds, but also allows you to bask in the glow of Christmas lights. The area around the Spanish Steps and Via del Corso are usually predictably sparkly. Christmas trees are set to go up in Piazza del Popolo, Piazza di Spagna and Piazza San Pietro. Rome’s Botanical Garden will be lit up again this year (Wednesday-Sunday 18:00-21:00). You can book online here.
Go out for a Holiday Cocktail: Although Domenico and I love our nightly cocktails by the Christmas tree at home (cozy!) we also love a cocktail out this time of year. Especially when hotel bars have such festive decorations. The Stravinskj Bar at Hotel du Russie has a special Winter Punch Bar that I visited last year and loved, so I can’t wait to visit again this year. But we’ll also be popping into the Plaza at their little known Bar Mascagni. It’s super old school, there is never anyone there and I love it as a stop when I’m out Christmas shopping.
Go to a Museum: Not really holiday related, except for the fact that during the rest of the year I don’t really have time. I’m definitely going to see the Guercino exhibition at the Scuderie.
Gorge on Chestnuts: This is the time of year to buy overpriced roasted chestnuts from street vendors. They are fresh and worth it. (Not so during the rest of the year) It’s also marrons glacé (candied chestnuts) season and the ones available at Moriondo & Gariglio are the best! They have freshly prepared ones, but when those finish, make sure to get a jar of the ones in syrup. They run out fast. And if you are a hot chocolate kind of person make sure you enjoy a cup of their freshly brewed cioccolato caldo while sitting in their lovely red shop.
Piazza Navona Christmas Market: Even though it gets more commercial each year, the festive stands selling candy and nativity scene figures still brings back memories of when I was a kid here. I love the merry-go-round and the slightly shabby looking Santa Claus and Befana are my favorite unlikely but inevitably festive couple.
WHAT I’M READING
I loved seeing this article about the 25 Most Influential Cookbooks from the last 100 years. They got all of my favorites. Any you think they left out? (leave comment below)
It's so important to make the effort to gather around the table with friends. Some how I've managed to make a career out of it.
Scamming these days is getting trickier and tricker to detect. This story - of someone responding to an invitation to be interviewed on a podcast - hit a bit close to home.
This review of an old fashioned Paris bistrot made me want to hop on a plane for dinner tonight.
I wish these Christmas Markets were a bit closer to home. But if you are in NY and want to take a day trip to Westchester, you’re in luck.
WHAT I’M BUYING: SOPHIE’S GIFT GUIDE
Sophie recently shared some of her favorite Italian-made gifts. You can find the entire list here as well as in the highlights on her Instagram account. But here are some of my favorites (hint, hint):
Colosseum Ring from Licciardello
Any pair of shoes from Velasca, but I really love their Friulane
This Barolo colored tote from Vipera
Is it a purse or a basket? I’m not sure and I don’t care since I’m in love with all the bags from Labroratorio di Progettualita
If you love the illustrated totes we give our tour guests, then you’ll love the illustrated cookbook made by the same artist
I’m in love with the Italian bed linens from Dafilo
And speaking of textiles, if you would like something truly extraordinary and also supporting local craftswomen, have a look at Le Costantine. Their rugs, scarves, table linen and pillows are all one of a kind and completely handwoven.
WHAT I’M DRINKING
When the weather turns chilly bourbon is my friend. I love a well made Manhattan, and by well made I mean made by me. Here is my go to recipe, which the exact brands I use. The only variation is that I sometimes use a squeeze of clementine, some peel as garnish and walnut bitters.
Manhattan
2 oz Maker’s Mark Bourbon
Splash Cocchi Storico red vermouth
1 tsp syrup from a jar of Luxardo Maraschino Cherries
1 Luxardo Maraschino Cherry
Pour bourbon, vermouth and syrup into a shaker. Add a few cubes of ice and gently stir.
Strain into glass of choice. (it should be festive!)
Add a few drops of each of the bitters to the glass, and drop in your cherry.
Cheers!!
AND FINALLY…
I hope you have a good month, celebrating if that’s your thing. Baking cookies, if that’s your thing (I’m hoping I might actually do more of that than I usually manage which is not at all). I’m also lining up some holiday movies to watch up in Umbria, cozy by the fire. Want to know what a big holiday classic is here in Italy? Trading Places with Eddie Murphy. For some odd reason it is Italy’s version of Love Actually. What are your holiday movies that you watch and re-watch? Leave some suggestions below in the comments !
x,Elizabeth
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Birdcage (Mike Nichols directed). One of the funniest most loving and festive movies of all time!
Classic Cary Grant film: Penny Serenade...but have tissues at hand.