January 2024 News from Elizabeth

What I'm watching, reading and eating

Happy New Year from a very quite Umbria. After spending Christmas in
Rome, we’re here through the next week or so. This coming Saturday is another holiday (The Epiphany) so this week will be filled with long walks and cooking from the garden. If you follow me on social media expect to see a LOT of cabbage.

I checked the date 10 times before posting this newsletter. I’m known to get the dates wrong whenever I’m writing something. I think it’s partially due to the fact that for my tour business I’m often working and thinking months or even years ahead. But I think my whole sense of time got warped like everyone else’s in 2020. Right? Like how on earth is it already 2024?

Are you making any resolutions? I have long since given up on that. Except maybe a new resolution for getting this newsletter out on the first of the month this year. So far, so good.

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WHAT’S NEW

I’m just finishing up our schedule for 2025. I know it seems like a long way off, but with tourism on the rise in Italy, I have to lock down our hotels WAY in advance. We have a lot of new kinds of tours planned that we are really excited about. In addition to Sophie and my regular food tours to Puglia, Parma, Sicily and Umbria, we are collaborating with friends and colleagues who will be hosting fun trips on their own. In the past we’ve organised tours with Evan Kleiman, Jenny Rosenstrach, Melissa Clark, Annie Fenn and others. In 2025 we are partnering with more food-focussed friends but are also planning trips that work in things like yoga and brain health. Stay tuned!

If you can’t think as far ahead as 2025, don’t worry. In the next few weeks I’ll be announcing several tours for the Fall of 2024. Well be headed to Umbria, Puglia and Sicily. And we have one special, completely new itinerary, that includes a few nights in Basilicata at one of my all time favourite hotels. If you’d like first chance to join us for these tours make sure you’re signed up for the Premium Newsletter. We always announce new tours there first.

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WHAT I’M READING

A few people recommended The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store. I gave it my best, but finally put it down after about a 1/4 way through. I couldn’t care less about any of the characters.

I needed something dependable after that so read Michael Connelly’s latest Resurrection Walk. Sometimes you just need a does of Bosch and the Lincoln Lawyer, am I right?

I’m not sure how I came to pick up Bunny. It got great reviews, but not by me. Again: could not relate to the characters. It is me, or is it getting harder to find something great to read?

I’m currently reading and loving Truly Madly Guilty, which is by Liane Moriarty. She’s the author of Big, Little Lies, and the plot line is suspenseful in the same way. I’m expecting a huge twist near the end.

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WHERE I’VE BEEN

Except for a quick family visit to the USA I was mostly in Rome. But I thought I’d share a few places I went to last month:

Trecca - This place has been around for a while but since it’s located a bit out of the historic center (a 15 minute taxi ride) I’d never made it. Emma decided it would be the perfect place to celebrate my birthday. And she was right. Love the atmosphere (trattoria) and the food was insanely good. May be my favourite place in Rome a the moment.

Stravinski Bar at Hotel de Russie - Again, not new, but this winter the bar has a menu of special hot cocktails - Toddies - that are the perfect thing to enjoy after a walk downtown. I went with my friend Eugenia one evening and we had a great time. The price isn’t cheap, but it comes with a lot of nibbles so I thought it was very much worth it. Also the drinks were very strong. ;) It sure warmed me up!

Salmoneria Dogana Vecchia - While walking around Christmas shopping I popped in to the Salmoneria. I always kind of forget about this place, but if you like smoked salmon, caviar etc. then this is the place to go for lunch if you’re wandering around. It’s not a restaurant, but has a few stools and tables. Think gourmet panini and a few salads. Very casual and extremely good fishy stuff.

Schostal - I can’t believe I had never been to this historic store in Rome. It’s been around in one form or another since 1870. It’s the type of old fashioned store that I LOVE. What they are mostly known for are their exquisite cotton pajamas. I got everyone a set for Christmas, and got myself a set too. I don’t think it will be the last pair.

Dolciumi Onorati - So many old fashioned stores have disappeared in Rome over the last 10 years. Luckily Dolciumi Onorati has managed to survive. It’s a teeny tiny confectionery store (candy) located near Piazza Navona. I went there last week to buy candied violet leaves. If you find yourself anywhere near here, go buy something to make sure this historic place is here the next time you visit. In addition to candies they also have an amazing selection of liqueurs.

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WHAT I’M WATCHING

The other day on Instagram I asked you what are your favorite shows to binge re-watch and these were the most popular:

• The West Wing

• Greys Anatomy

• Outlander

• Criminal Minds

• Bosch

• The Wire

• Modern Family

• Friends

Do you have a show that you binge watch? I love picking a series that I’ve never seen, one that has at least 5 seasons, and then watching it during my down time (if I’m having lunch on my own, sitting in airplanes or trains, etc). The most recent series that I caught up on and loved were The Rookie, Suits and Superstore. I’ve just started Shameless, and have to say I’m loving it. Just soap opera-y enough, with great performances by William Macy and Jeremy Allen White.

Then there are the series that I watch over and over again, just for comfort. West Wing is the top of the list with Downtown Abbey and Gilmore Girls a close second.

Shows we are loving at the moment: Lessons in Chemistry and the totally fabulous Serpent Queen.

And before I sign off on this section, what did you think of Leave the World Behind? I LOVED it. Leave a comment below, but try not to include any spoilers.

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Photo: New York Times

WHAT I’M EATING

I meant to make this tart for our Christmas party or else for New Years, but somehow there was just too much other food going on. But I am going to make it this week since a potato chip and caviar tart has my name written all over it. I’m all for an easy tart, like this one and this one. But when Melissa Clark decided to top a potato tart with potato chips and salmon caviar? I haven’t stopped thinking about it.

Potato Chip and Caviar Tart (adapted from Melissa Clark)

• 1/2 kilo waxy potatoes

• 1/2 tsp salt

• 1 cup sour cream (if I can’t find this I’ll be using stracchino)

• 1 cup grated Parmigiano reggiano

• 3 tblsp butter, melted

• 2 egg yolks

• chives

• 2 small garlic cloves, grated

• fresh marjoram

• flour for dusting

• 1 package of puff pastry

• 1/3 cup salmon roe

• Crumbled ridged potato chips

Bring a pot of salted water to boil and add the potatoes. Cook until fork tender (for small potatoes about 15 minutes, a bit longer for bigger ones. Let cook completely then slice into 1/4 inch rounds.

Heat oven to 201C/425F.

Unroll the puff pastry and put it on a parchment lined baking sheet. (in Italy the puff pastry comes rolled already with a piece of parchment). Using a sharp knife, score a 1 inch border around the edge.

In a bowl stir together sour cream or stracchino, 1/2 c parmigiano, butter, egg yolks,marjoram, chives and salt. Gently stir in the sliced potatoes.

Spread the potato mixture on the pastry. Brush the edges with sour cream if using, or else olive oil or butter. Add remaining parmigiano to top of potatoes.

Bake until it’s golden brown and bubbling (about 25 minutes). Let cool for at least 10 minutes on a rack. Top with roe and chips and some more chives. Slice and serve.

With a very dirty martini I’m thinking.

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AND FINALLY…

Once more I wish you and your loved ones a very Happy New Year. Thank you so much for reading this Newsletter and following along as I wander and eat my way through Italy. I feel extremely lucky to be here, and I’m so happy I can share things with you. I wish you all love and peace and good things in the year to come.

x,Elizabeth