March 2021 Newsletter
Rome, rants and recipes (also cocktails)
Hello and happy Wednesday.
I hope you’re doing well. Here in Rome it’s a gorgeous day, sunny and in the mid ’60’s. Sophie and I, in our quest to take advantage of the combination of free time (no clients) and an empty Rome (no clients) are about to head out to visit the Colosseum, something I haven’t done in over 30 years and Sophie has NEVER done! But this morning I’ve been busy editing a video that will be part of my next Q&A about olive oil. Become a paid subscriber to join in and have all of your olive oil questions answered! I’ll also be including a discount code for some of my favorite oils.
Paid subscribers will also have access to my podcasts, including the next one where I talk about my favorite cheese Parmigiano Reggiano. Now for news…
The New York Times has done it again. Actually in the last few weeks they’ve done it three times. First there was their Vegan Cacio e Pepe. Then A Meatless Bolognese. And finally, there was Carbonara-gate: a recipe for Carbonara that called for not just smoked bacon, but tomatoes. As you can imagine, insanity ensued.
I wish I could say that the insanity was limited to our very small corner of the world that cares deeply about such things. But no. I was actually asked to go on Italian national TV to weigh in. I kid you not. There is a governmental crisis and a world wide pandemic and Elizabeth Minchilli was talking about the virtues of carbonara in prime time.
I’m not usually one to get upset when people make creative twists on traditional recipes. My website is full of beloved recipes updated to suit the season, my mood or what I happened to have in my cupboard. But. And it’s a big BUT, I would never think to call them by their original names.
I’m a big believer in the concept that words matter. And I deeply believe that when it comes to recipes there is only so much leeway available before the dish morphs into something completely new, different and even possibly delicious.
So when a publication like the New York Times , which prides itself on being the paper of record, decides to completely ignore the cultural, historical or even factual meaning of a recipe title I get a bit miffed. Specifically:
-I’m sure this recipe for Vegan Cacio e Pepe is delicious, but since it uses nut butter and miso instead of pecorino cheese (which is the Cacio of the recipe) , wouldn’t it be more honest to call it a cashew version of sesame noodles? Or even just Cashew e Pepe? In whose world is this Cacio e Pepe?
-Can we just call this recipe for Vegan Bolognese with Mushrooms and Walnuts what it is? Mushroom Ragù? Why on earth do we have to pretend it’s something it’s not. Ragù is made all over Italy, with all sorts of ingredients. The version from Bologna (Bolognese) always has meat. Period.
-Carbonara is one of those simple rustic recipes where the only three ingredients - un-smoked pancetta or guanciale, pecorino or parmigiano and rich egg yolks - are the stars. So when you decide to add tomatoes let’s just call this what it is: Amatriciana with - for some weird reason - eggs. I’m not even going to address the idea of adding smoked bacon since that flavor so overwhelms everything else we’re not even on the same level playing field. Yet still, I’m sure I would willingly eat and enjoy this dish if someone made it for me. BUT I would not call it Carbonara. And you shouldn’t either.
I am in no way criticizing these recipes. I am in no way commenting on the fact that we could all use more recipes with little or no meat and/or cheese. BUT…can we just think of better names to call them instead of appropriating a very specific aspect of Italy’s cultural and culinary heritage?
Rant over. Thank you for listening.
WHAT’S NEW
Since you can’t make it to Italy at the moment, Sophie and I continue in our efforts to bring a bit of Italy to you. We know you are depending on us. ;)
As the ban on travel has continued into the Spring I seriously considered finally offering online cooking lessons. At the end of the day (literally) I realized that the time zone difference is just too great to make it work. Honestly there was no way my brain (and body) could work to give a zoom class after 6pm. I’m just not made that way. So I continue to offer my completely free and public cooking tutorials via Instagram and have started a new series of virtual market tours. The walks around Rome are fun to make and everyone seems to really enjoy the little snippets of daily life I post on Instagram and TikTok. And if you’re wondering how I make a living shooting these videos for Instagram, TikTok and YouTube? I don’t. Which is why I certainly do appreciate your support in the form of becoming a paying subscriber to this newsletter!
But if you’d like something a bit more than the virtual tease that are my videos, or even this newsletter, Sophie is offering a new service. She is currently preparing what I like to call ‘Sophie Boxes.’ (I’m not sure what she is calling them). Basically if you let her know how much you’d like to spend, she will (based on few questions) prepare a Surprise Box full of goodies to ship to you with some of her favorite items from local stores. Each box is different, but some items a recent box contained included: linen dish towels, Easter chocolates, Sophie’s favorite pasta, a hand crafted leather coin purse, a cute tote bag and a silver Colosseum ring! And if you’d like a nonna house dress from Puglia? No problem! If you’d like to know more, just send Sophie an email. I’m thinking these would make great mother’s day gifts.
WHAT I’M WATCHING
Yes. I have watched the first three episodes of Stanley Tucci. It’s beautifully put together and he is certainly charming. I loved the Naples episode. Less so the Rome and Florence, but mostly because it was just a bit too superficial and there were weird choices (at least in my opinion) about the places they visited. For instance in Rome they visited a very touristy new restaurant to learn about Jewish Fried Artichokes instead of one of the older traditional places. But I realize that I’m hyper sensitive to things like this, and absolutely appreciate the light Tucci is shining on the country that desperately needs tourism to return as soon as possible. So thank you Mr. Tucci and I’ll be watching the Emilia Romagna episode tonight!
At this point we all know the perils in terms of our health to eating industrialized produced meat. We also know about what it does to the environment. But this recent episode from John Oliver focuses on the human toll for those who actually work in those horrific factories.
I love the scenes in books where my favorite characters eat. This new series will bring some of the best loved dishes to life.
WHAT I’M READING
The New Cucina Italiana by Laura Lazzaroni looks at some of the most creative young chefs in Italy today. It’s gorgeous!!
An incredible story about a Cooking School in the south of Italy that is fighting back against the Mafia.
Priya Krishna wonders if traditional wine pairings still matter.
I think one of my favorite pastas is Spaghetti alle Vongole. According to this article, it was invented in Naples. Who knew? (I didn’t!)
WHAT I’M EATING
Is it Easter again already? Wasn’t it just…last week? I’m ready. Are you? This box from our friend Coral may help (you have to order soon!)
I’ve been eating a LOT of artichokes in the last month. While I’m not as fast at trimming them as this guy, I’m pretty darn fast. My newest discovery is that once trimmed, I can cook them in the Instant Pot so they come out incredibly tender. Like silky tender. 8 minutes on high, with some parsley, salt and pepper, garlic , a bit of water and a few glugs of olive oil. Here are a few more artichoke-centric recipes:
WHAT I’M DRINKING
Negroni Sbagliato
Yeah yeah I know I said February was going to be dryish. But…I decided weekends didn’t count. I also decided that a Negroni Sbagliato was a good compromise. Just like a Negroni, but instead of gin, you add Prosecco. Kind of like a Negroni Lite.
1 ounce Campari
1 ounce sweet red vermouth (I like Rosso Antico)
2 ounces (more or less) prosecco
Pour Campari and vermouth into a rocks glass. Fill with ice, and top up with Prosecco. Stir gently (you don’t want to make all the bubbles bubble away) and garnish with a slice of orange
AND FINALLY….
Remember the invitation to meet with the mayor of Rome, Virgina Raggi? She was very nice, and we talked about tourism in general and how to bring it back once the country opens up again. Specifically how to deal with avoiding the over-tourism in Rome in the ‘before times’. I suggested making it easier for people to visit the areas outside the city center, as well as encourage exploration of the countryside around Rome. It’s not like we solved any problems, but a conversatin about these issues is a good start. Also? I got to see the view from her amazing balcony over-looking the Roman Forum and climb onto the roof of the senate to watch the sun set. So there was that.
I hope spring is starting to make itself known wherever you are. The warmer temps have definitely lifted everyone’s spirits here in Rome and it’s been much easier to get outside and see people over a macchiato, Negroni or even lunch. Which is pretty much what I’ll be doing while waiting for my turn to get vaccinated. Now off to see the Colosseum!
x,Elizabeth
I agree with your comments. It is one thing to say that a recipe is “inspired by” or is “a riff on” an iconic dish, but quite another to change the dish fundamentally while retaining the name.
Regarding cooking artichokes in the Instant pot, quick or slow release? Thanks So Much!