April 2024 News from Elizabeth
Palermo restaurants, risotto recipe and tours
I was just going through my camera roll to refresh my memory about what I ate, did, and saw this past month, and I have to admit that my overall photo count was about 80% flowers. Flowers make me very happy all year round, but during spring, I admit that things get a little out of hand. On the one hand there are oodles of tulips in the market. But then, there are just so many flowers out in the wild. Rome is bursting with wisteria and the landscape in Sicily was virtually carpeted with wild flowers. The highlight of last month though, may have been my discovery that there is a ‘pick your own’ flower farm near us in Umbria. I guess dreams do come true.
I realize that a lot of people think of flowers as a special treat. I think of them as a form of therapy. Which I sometimes take to extremes. For instance, one of the first things I do when I arrive in Ortigia for our week-long tour there is go out to hunt for flowers. And I don’t mean I go to a flower shop. I literally walk around the town looking for stray dandelions or a snip or two of an abandoned (stolen?) geranium. Back in my hotel room, I know they will bring cheer all week long. I also love to gift flowers. Lately I’ve been using this service to celebrate birthdays or any other occasion. Because I know if I love to receive flowers, there is a good chance that my friends and family do too.
I’m curious:
WHAT’S NEW
Our first tour of the season was to Western Sicily, and I couldn’t have asked for better weather. March is iffy all over Italy, but these days, the iffy lands more on the side of sun than of rain. Especially in Sicily. Our week there was one gloriously sunny day after the next. Sophie is headed back at the end of the month with another group, and we still have a few spots left on this tour next October.
We are getting ready for three tours to Puglia this month. Sophie is hosting one, I’m doing another, and our friend Annie is leading one, too. If you didn’t get a chance to sign up for these, we still have a handful of spots left for the tour this May to Puglia & Basilicata. And since we are talking about the weather, the end of May/June is the sweet spot for Puglia. Warm enough to hang out at the beach, but none of the oppressive heat of high summer. This tour is based in Bari for 5 nights, with days out in the countryside and one full day in Matera. The hotel that we stay in is right on the water (and all of the rooms have sea views and balconies - see the photos above). And did you know that Bari has its own lovely beach? It’s a 20-minute stroll from our hotel along Bari’s boardwalk and is a sand beach with a cute park and bar. Since you’ll have a few afternoons free (and the sun doesn’t set until 8:15 pm!), you’ll have plenty of time to wiggle your toes in the Pugliese sand. Also, as a subscriber to this newsletter, I’d like to offer you a special last-minute discount. If you are traveling on your own, we’d like to offer you a 10% discount. And if two of you sign up together (you can each have your own room if you need it), the discount is 15% for each person! You can download the brochure below and apply this discount to the published price.
As you may remember from past newsletters I’ve been planning a brand new tour to Florence. I announced it last week to the Premium readers of this newsletter, and it is almost sold out. We have one space left! If you’d like to have a look at the itinerary, click on the link below. If you don’t grab the last spots, we are happy to add you to the waitlist.
I will definitely be repeating this tour again in 2025, so if you’d like to be able to join us next year, make sure you are signed up for the Premium version of this newsletter.
For our full list of upcoming tours, visit this page. We still have spots left for Puglia, Sicily, and Umbria in Fall 2024.
WHERE I’VE BEEN
Sophie and I had a fabulous time leading our first-ever Western Sicily tour. We were based in Palermo and spent each day exploring a different delicious aspect of the food culture in this part of Sicily. A few of our days were spent in the countryside and some in the city itself. Since we had big lunches, in the evenings we left our guests free to explore Palermo and arrange dinners on their own. Of course, we shared our favorite places. Our guests got a list of over 20 spots, not only where to eat dinner but also where to grab the best gelato, street food, and cannoli. If you come on one of our Palermo tours, you’ll get the full list, too. But in the meantime, here are 5 of our favorite places for lunch or dinner:
Corona Trattoria This is one of my favorite restaurants in Palermo. Owned by a lovely father and son, it has a bright and airy interior and truly excellent fish.
Aja Mola This small restaurant has some of the best seafood in town. Halfway between creative and traditional. I love their raw antipasti (a series of small plates), and the pastas are all fantastic.
Sardina Pasta Bar I LOVE this fish restaurant located right next to Aja Mola. Everything is delicious, including the couscous. The service is lovely, and there is a big outdoor terrace.
Osteria Alivaru da Carlo This restaurant is tucked into a small square in the Kalsa market. The owner, Carlo, is completely charming, and everything he makes is delicious. We were there recently, and he had just gotten in a delivery of artichokes, which he cooked for our lunch. They have a small terrace outside when the weather is nice. Market-driven menu and natural wines.
Trattoria Ferro di Cavallo 100% old fashioned trattoria in the heart of Palermo. It’s always buzzing with both tourists and locals (lots of students at lunch). They serve very good simple food at reasonable prices. I love their pasta alle sarde with wild fennel, pine nuts, and raisins. The place is always crowded and the service is unreliable, but everyone is always happy and having a great time. I love it.
WHAT I’M READING
I tried my hardest to get into Tana French’s latest book, The Hunter. Although I’ve read and loved almost all of her previous books, the nicest thing I can say about The Hunter is that it definitely put me to sleep at night.
I’m currently reading Horse by Geraldine Brooks, which my sister recommended. I’m only about 20 pages in, but I’m LOVING it. Beautifully written it weaves art and race and the true tale of one of the greatest racehorses of all time.
Richard Serra’s works form part of my earliest childhood memories. I was sorry to see he had passed away, and of course, I read all of the articles written about his career. But I particularly loved this very personal memory.
As someone who prides herself on being a bit obsessed with perfume, as well as someone who spends a lot of time in Parma, how did I not know about this amazing woman?
You know I love martinis, and that I also have a thing for olive oil, so this recipe for Batched Olio Martinis has my name on it. The author, Odette Williams, is leading a tour to Sicily for us this fall.
There are many reasons I drink coffee. However, the fact that it may actually be good for me never crossed my mind. This article from Brain Health Kitchen’s Annie Fenn does a deep dive into polyphenols (plant compounds with health-promoting properties) and splash lands right into a cup of coffee. Who knew? And if you’re curious about how some of the other Italian foods you know and love may actually help promote brain health, you can join Annie in Sicily next fall. She’s leading two tours for us to Eastern Sicily and then Western Sicily. (If you sign up for both, you get 5% off the regular price).
I guess someone was inspired by my carbonara deviled egg video.
WHAT I’M WATCHING
The Gentlemen - I mean, I’m going to like anything with Theo James. This is a very smart adaptation by Guy Ritchie of the film of the same name he made in 2019. So yes, a bit of violence, but very stylized.
We are only one episode into 3 Body Problem on Netflix but are totally fascinated. I have very little idea what is really going on but in a good way.
I’m not quite sure how Domenico decided we should watch Dirty Rotten Scoundrels with Michael Caine and Steve Martin. It’s hard to believe that a movie from the late ’80s could feel so dated. We loved it, especially the extremely young Glenne Headly. What’s another totally silly film we should watch from the ’80s? Let me know in the comments.
WHAT I’M EATING
It should come as no surprise that we’ve been eating as many artichokes as possible. The season came early this year, so I guess that means it will end early, too. Whenever people write to ask me when to come to Italy to enjoy artichokes, it’s kind of hard to give a definitive answer. It’s usually February-April, more or less. But it also depends on where you are: the first artichokes come from Puglia and Sicily, then there is Sardinia, and finally the big (and I think the best ones) from Rome.
As artichoke season comes to an end, I can comfort myself with the fact that fave and peas are here. In fact, one of my all-time favorite ways to enjoy this precise moment in time is a dish that combines all three of these ingredients. I used to think it was only a particularly Roman dish called Vignarola. But during our time in Palermo I found out that they make the same thing there, but call it Frittella. Although usually served as a first course, I often make it into a risotto, which screams spring.
Risotto alla Vignarola
Serves 4-6
1 small onion
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
pepper
1 kilo/2 pounds fresh peas (weight before shelled)
1 kilo/ 2 pounds fresh fave (weight before shelled)
8 medium artichokes
400 grams of rice (arborio or cannaroli)
1/3 cup white wine
1/3 cup stracchino cheese (or anything soft and slightly tangy)
1/4 cup fresh mint
Light stock, about 1 liter.
Shell peas and fave beans.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil, and then add shelled fave beans for 45 seconds. Immediately drain and rinse under cool water. The inner beans should now easily pop out of the thick outer skin.
Set peas and fave aside.
Clean and trim artichokes and cut into eighths, keeping in acidulated water until ready to use.
Bring stock to boil.
In large pot heat butter and oil, then add chopped onion, salt, and pepper, and let cook gently until softened. Add artichokes and about a 1/4 cup of water. Let cook, with lid on, for about 5 minutes. Lift lid and let water evaporate if there is any left.
Add rice and stir well for a couple of minutes. Add wine and let it evaporate.
Add a few ladles of broth and keep stirring, adding more broth, a little at a time, as it evaporates.
When the rice is about 6 minutes from being done, add fresh peas and continue cooking. After 4 minutes add fave beans and stir for another two minutes.
Take off the heat and add the cheese, a bit at a time, mixing well. Add mint, stir, and serve.
AND FINALLY…
Speaking of artichokes, since I get the question ‘how do I trim an artichoke?’ a LOT, I thought I’d leave you with this video from a few years ago.
x,Elizabeth
We just finished The Gentlemen and loved it. Perfectly cast. Quirky, surprising, and lots of dry humor. Hopefully Netflix will give the go ahead for a second season. My personal favorite has been the 3 seasons of Lupin. Check it out.
If you’ve never seen Breaking Away, I recommend it very much. If you’ve seen it, then watch it again. It has an Italian twist as well. (I agree with the rec of The Birdcage above. Nathan Lane and Agador Spartacus. So good.